Saturday, 20 July 2013

Ekke's Letters

Excerpts from Letters

by Ekkehard Beinssen
Letter from Jakob Brenn to Ekke Beinssen

Dear Ekkehardt!
Received your letter some days ago. Was very pleased to get it; and am sorry I never answered before; but I where so busy ever, before I went away for my Hollydays, to do and ceep everything in Rheingold nicly in Order. Well my Darling up here are so many steamers waiting for Coals and have so much to walk allways [...] Dear Ekkehardt, I am sorry I could not be home if you come on Dirstay, but I will be back at night of the day and then I will be so glad to see you again. Dear Ekkehardt the robe I promiset you to ceep, it is in that shed in the back yard inside of the door it hangs up if you wandet before I will be back. My dearling I must close now as I want to write some thing else to any other friends, but I dought to you I will writ at first. I will send you any Card from Maitland as I will be there after tomorrow. With best wishes and much love from your friend Jakob. (12.12.09)



Poem written for the Beinssen children by their governess Jessica Calver
Look Pleasant
We cannot of course all be handsome,
And it’s hard for us all to be good,
We are sure now and then to be lonely
And we don’t always do as we should.
To be patient is not always easy,
To be cheerful is much harder still,
But at least we can always be pleasant
If we make up our minds that we will.
Then make up your mind to seem happy,
Although you feel worried and blue.
If you smile at the world and look cheerful
The world will soon smile back at you.
So try to brace up and look pleasant,
No matter how long you are down.
Good humour is always contagious,
But you banish your friends when you frown.
J. Calver
Excerpts fromEkke’s diary for the trip to Germany on the Große Kurfürst
Saturday 25.3.11
After leaving Australia in a taxi cab, we went into our cabins and made ourselves easy. There was an awful crowd on board and it was hard to find our friends. Mother and Grandmother received many bouquets and us also. The steamer began to move at about 1 o’clock. We threw ribbons to our friends and held them to the very end. Seeing the last of our friends, we looked at the battleships Yarra and Parramatta which had only come that same morning. We watched the pilot leave the ship and then went to lunch which we enjoyed for the first time on board. We then befriended the Granowskis and we all took our rugs onto the boat deck and read etc. We went to bed early and enjoyed our sleep in the cabin, which was Baby’s [Gerda’s] first time on a big steamer.
Sunday 26.3.11
[...] while we were lying down we heard the wireless telegraphy going and as we had not heard it before we hoped it was some wreck but we were disappointed. [...] We passed Wilson’s Promontory and signalled our name to the lighthouse. The Granowskis received a wireless from Captain Schmidt who was in charge of a cargo boat and also their friend.
Monday 27.3.11
We came into Melbourne at five o’clock in the morning and I got up and woke the Granowskis. We watched the tugs fasten onto our boat, but we had the tide against us and one of the big ropes broke, so altogether we took a whole hour to get alongside the wharf. We were surprised to see the old-fashioned cable trams, which we liked better than the electric trams. We went to the Zoo while Father went to his office. We did not like it as much as the Sydney one, although it is supposed to be better. We came back in a horse tram which we thought still more ridiculous. We went and had tea in Menzies Hotel and then Mr Somers brought us back to the ship. We left at six o’clock and expected it to be very rough as there was nearly a gale blowing that day. [...]
Monday 10.4.11
Wilhelm told us that the bath was being got ready for the christening. The second class people were done first, first of all Father Neptune and after him the shavers with a shaving knife 2 feet long. The men were carried to the shaving place and were soaped with the brush they paint the boat with and then thrown into the bath and hosed. Then us boys’ turn came; we went into our cabins and put on our pyjamas and we were put into the bath and also hosed but not soaped.
[...]
Wednesday 12.4.11
The Captain was on the bridge all night because there was a hurricane and he did not know if it would catch us up or not. But we only got the tail-end of it although the waves were coming over her bow. One nearly got blown off one’s feet.
[...]
Friday 14.4.11
We arrived at Colombo at 6.30 am and it was a pretty sight to see the palm trees etc. We left the boat at 8 am and went in rickshaws to the Galeface Hotel and enjoyed the novelty. We went in a motor to the Hillarney Temple and we saw lots of forests of coconut trees and the places where the blacks lived were filthy. In the temple were two tremendous reclining statues of Buddha gilded with gold. There was a big pagoda with a golden chair in it. There was a banyan tree 2000 years old. Father and I had to go back to the boat to get something and there we nearly were roasted alive. Afterwards Father and I had a swim in the Galeface baths where there is a slide etc. We went for a moonlight rickshaw.
[...]
Tuesday 18.4.11
The adults fancy dress ball came off very well; Mother went as Powder and Patches and Ingeborg as Black Pierette.
 [...]
Thursday 20.4.11
We arrived at Aden at 12.30 p.m.. All the Arabs came in their little boats with things to sell. They threw ropes right up to the promenade deck with baskets at the end of them and things to sell in them.
[...]
Monday 24.4.11
Mrs Captain Rott and Captain Rott gave a fancy dress ball for the children. I went as a Singhalese and there were many other pretty costumes. We had a maypole and the decks were decorated with flags etc. Afterwards we were all photographed.
[...]
Thursday 27.4.11
After Port Said we did nothing exceptional till we came to the Straits of Messina where we came to Stromboli. We could not see it smoking as a cloud was just in front of it. There were villages on its sides which seemed to have been built in a very dangerous spot. We passed Capri, then we saw Mount Vesuvius and we saw many little villages along the coasts. A boat was let down and went to the quarantine station to fetch the doctor. In the evening we sat waiting; we heard that there was small-pox on board.
Sunday 30.4.11
We went for a drive and then came back and packed. We got vaccinated, we got off the boat a quarter of an hour before it left. We waved to our friends till we could see them no longer. Then we drove to the Bertolini’s Hotel, where we rested all the afternoon and then we had dinner with the adults in the big dining room.



Letter to Inge when World War I was imminent 
                                                                 Berlin, Kaiserdamm 34, 1. August 1914
My dear old Spin!
                        We are already in Berlin.  I will tell you how it all came to pass. On Thursday we got up in Mariatorp thinking of nothing bad, as after breaker a little boy brought us a telegram.  We knew quite well what was in it before we opened it.  Father had telegraphed that we were to come home at once, because of the war that was most likely to break out. I tell you that was an excitement. I had to run down to Mr Kostka and tell him to telegraph at once to Malmoe for a sleeping car. Baby and Grandmother scraped all our belongings together and packed, for we hat to part with the midday train.  We were all awfully sorry to have to go away from Lia.  The Kostka family had been so very nice to us.  But it couldn't be helped.  At one we steamed off to Ullared where we took another train to Varberg.  In Varberg we had to wait 2 hours for the train to Malmoe.  The train was terribly full, but we managed to get seats for us all.  It was a beautiful voyage.  You know it already so I need not describe it any more.  In Malmoe Granny asked for her sleeping-car tickets, which she had ordered.  But the man said that they were all sold-out since weeks.  This took a fairly long time, so we were almost the last to get into the train, and naturally we got no places.  The "Gänge" were full of people, who could not get a place.  With much work Grandmother persuaded some people in the first class to move together a bit and make place for Baby and herself.  I sat on the necessere in the "Gang" on the "Traieek". I took a cabin for the others (Baby and Granny), and was to sleep in the train. For half of the night I "strolcht" about on the boat and read jokes in the reading-room.  Afterwards I went into the train to sleep, but I could not sleep in the sitting position.  I believe I had drawn the better lot in staying on deck, for the other two almost stifled down below in the cabin.  Anyway we arrived tired and safely in Berlin where Frl. Schneider awaited us.  We had breakfast and then Mother told us to lie down.  I don't know how it came but I got up off the couch in the school-room opened the lift door and drove down still sleeping.  I don't know what I did down there, but I only remember that I walked up the stairs and rang at the wrong department.  Isn't that funny!!?  Our train was one of the last that brought passengers from Sweden; the others all bring officers or are used to transport the soldiers the "Grenzen".  There are already 16 "Battalione" on the French and 4 on the Russian "Grenze".  They must have all parted last night for I heard through the whole night trains passing.  Isn't it terrible that there is going to be war.  Mother, father and I were in town last night.  We took the underground till Friedrichstr. where we took a cab.  We told him to drive through the Linden and then to the Schloß.  The streets were so full of people all going to the Schloß that one could hardly get through with the carriage.  As we passed the castle of the Kronprinz we saw that it was guarded by a whole lot of soldiers and policemen.  The people were in an awful excitement they were crying Hurrah!! singing "Die Wacht am Rhein," and all sorts of patriotic songs, and giving toasts on our Emperor.  Around the Schloß were thousands and thousands of people, also screaming and behaving themselves how I have already described it.  Just as we passed, the Kaiser, the Kaiserin and the Kronprinz appeared at a window of the Schloß, at whom the people took off their hats and screamed hurrah! till they were quite horse.  Now and then a motor appears full of "Extra Blätter" which a little boy throws out onto the street after which the people run like mad.  As soon as someone lets a paper drop straight away some one else picks it up.  I have never seen something so interesting and grand but also so terrible as this.  Because just fancy the people who are screaming today will perhaps lie dead on the battlefield tomorrow or when.  The press can't print enough papers as are wanted to be bought.  I had to go up three times to the Reichskanzlerplatz before I could get a paper.  The air is full of rumours, one does really not know what to believe.  If England would keep cool and "neutral" it would not be so bad for Germany, for Japan has said it would attack Russia from behind (one also says it has made a "Bündnis with Austria) and Italy would attack France from behind.  Till you get this letter I suppose everything will be different.  Mother and Father thought of fetching you, but no trains go from here to Switzerland.  Hoping that everything will turn out best for our dear old Germany, I am with much love and many kisses your loving
            Brother
                                                                        Ekke.              



Holidays with the Krauses in Walchstadt on the Wörthsee, July 1916
The trip down went well. It consisted of eating and looking out of the window. The little house is just beautiful. In the midst of dense trees it is situated at the edge of a beautiful beech forest. If you walk through the forest you have a view the like of which you rarely see. In the foreground is the Wörthsee, surrounded by superb forests and extensive green fields and in the background a beautiful monastery, Andechs, lies on a hill. In the far distance you can see the Bavarian High Alps. You can even see as far as the Allgäu. Walchstadt is a small place so that you can be quite free and uninhibited there. On the evening of our arrival we went straight down and took a refreshing and cleansing bath in the warm waters of the Wörthsee. When we walked back home through the forest it was already late so that you could see hundreds of little glow-worms flashing everywhere. It was just lovely. Yesterday we went fishing in the pouring rain and caught over a hundred fish in all. One of them weighed four and a half pounds. But the others were all little perch and the like, that you eat fried, bones and all. They taste good. Then we went for a swim and unpacked. But the stiff shirts and collars and all that city stuff won’t be needed here. All we wear is a sports-shirt and shorts. We go barefoot all day and I have my old Australian calluses under my feet again. They are more durable than any footwear. You turn into a real child of nature here, which is my ideal. It is not like you thought it would be. [...] I would like to thank you again very sincerely for letting me go; I feel completely at home here. (Undated)
(On one of the rare fine days of that summer the boys went off to Munich. Ekke went to the art galleries, in particular the Schack and the Neue Pinakothek.)
Of course I liked Feuerbach best. I fell in love with his Medea and his Pieta in particular, literally in love. And you know that I don’t fall in love easily. But I feel these two paintings are like old friends. I also liked the two Kaulbachs and the Böcklin. Then we went to eat in the Augustiner-Bräu. It was still just as cosy and friendly as it was in winter. After that we climbed one of the two towers of the Frauenkirche and had a marvellous view over all Munich and surroundings. In the afternoon we made our way home again, after we had laden ourselves up with cheese etc.[...] I am quite brown already and people say I look very well. That is also due to our food, which is excellent: All potatoes and vegetables, very rarely meat, which suits me fine. Above all, it is the milk curds which we get for lunch and dinner and sometimes afternoon tea as well. The whole family is really quite delightful. Yesterday evening, when we were returning from our swim, we ran into - Hans and Lolo could not believe their eyes - Felix Kraus, their brother. Through a mere coincidence he was transferred from the hell of the French front near Noyon to Berlin. You can imagine the delight of the family Kraus. He is likely to get three weeks leave, so that he can actually spend the holidays with us. (19.7.1916)
This morning we went for a marvellous paddle to the island in our canoe, which is very unstable, leaky and tarry, a trip of about one and a half hours. For a while we went through very high reeds and picked a large bunch of flowering water-lilies. Then we disembarked on the island and climbed up a mighty linden tree, which was still in full flower. Then we rummaged through an old abandoned castle. I can assure you that after that breakfast tasted particularly good. In the course of the morning we went bathing and I tried out for how long I could swim. I swam breast-stroke in one go, without resting, for half an hour. After that I was not in the slightest tired or cold. (21.7.16)
Coming back from a shopping excursion to Munich with Lolo, Ekke discovered that the group had decided, on the spur of the moment, to leave that very same afternoon for the planned climb of the Zugspitze.
That meant changing quickly and packing all that was required into the knapsacks. Then we had afternoon tea and went heavily laden to Steinbach station. On the way I had a refreshing and invigorating swim in the Wörthsee; then we were off. At six we caught the train to Herrsching on the Ammersee. Then in the cool of evening we took the steamer across the Ammersee from where we watched the most beautiful sunset. Having arrived in Steegen we made our way through the village creating something of a spectacle in our strange attire. For with our long alpenstocks and shorts, or better leather shorts, without hats etc. we did look a bit strange. We had another two hours and so had dinner there. In the best of spirits we then made our way to the railway station and got on the train to Weilheim. At eleven thirty we wandered through the town and after initial difficulties found quite good accommodation. Next morning it was on to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. It was a wonderful journey through beautiful Upper-Bavaria and our enthusiasm became ever greater as we came nearer to the Zugspitze. We arrived there before nine and now met with impediments, one after the other, which were, however, all overcome by means of the most amazing strokes of luck. Above all, we now had to book guides. So we betook ourselves to the head guide of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and he said that all the guides (during the war there were only six) were already out. Then Hans’ and my boots were to be nailed with hobnails. The cobbler wasn’t prepared to do that so quickly. Then we were to walk about three hours to Eibsee in searing heat. By chance Mrs Kraus met a gentleman she knew, a distinguished businessman, and on his recommendation the boot-maker immediately fixed our boots. This gentleman had a brother in Eibsee. Mrs Kraus telephoned him. He would try to book guides for us. He also told us that we needed passports because the Wiener-Neustaedter Hut was in Austria. By good luck we obtained seats in a carriage that was going to Eibsee so that we didn’t have to walk the dusty road. Then we had lunch in Garmisch-Partenkirchen and in a tearing hurry and with the help of a watchmaker I managed to unscrew and repair my camera. But the uphill trip by carriage was so slow that we boys walked and arrived in Eibsee before the carriage. There two guides were waiting for us, a surprise that we certainly had not expected. Mrs Kraus’ friend invited us for afternoon tea and, thus fortified, we set out with the two guides. Our first destination was the Wiener-Neustaedter Hut. Initially we went up through dark fir forest, taking long slow steps. (We had left at 6 pm.) At about 2000 metres height the tree coverage stopped and we climbed upwards through desolate scree at the foot of the Wetterstein Range. After about one and three quarters of an hour it became a bit more difficult. We had to climb through a small chimney. Only for those with a head for heights! Then in serpentines up a steep slope, on narrow paths past precipices up to the hut. We saw the sunset beautifully and arrived up there when it was getting quite dark. The two girls were very glad to see a few people again. In the hut then things really took off. Had a good meal and innumerable pieces of bread, butter and cheese, all without bread etc. coupons. Then over a glass of ‘Terlaner’ we watched the guides dance Schuhplattler to the mouth organ. As accompaniment, they sang a whole lot of songs in their dialect. It was such fun that we didn’t get to bed till twelve. We slept on mattresses and were woken at four; it was to be a five o’clock start. But when we were up Mrs Kraus did not feel well, for due to the thin air she had hardly slept and had palpitations. So she went to bed again and we did not leave till eight. In the meantime we boys clambered around in safe spots, went for walks on the big snow-field and took a few photos which, however, are not yet developed. At nine Mrs Kraus felt quite well again and now the real ascent could begin. We were roped up though we protested at first; but later we understood why. One of the guides went first at the head; about three meters on Niko, Hans, the second guide and Mrs Kraus followed and I came last. We first traversed a wide and fairly steep snow-field to the foot of the Zugspitze. Then we had to go very steeply through a high chimney, over scree, snow-fields, frozen paths which we had to find for ourselves, up onto the Zugspitze. Finally you have to walk along a ridge. All along, it was only for those with a good head for heights; for if you had slipped only once and lost your balance without being roped up, you would have been lost almost every time. There the guide had to help Mrs Kraus a number of times. But I was amazed how well she got up. To make matters worse there was an extremely strong wind that almost blew you down. Because of it and because of touching the cold snow and the cold rocks your hands became icy cold. But the rest of us was not cold. You also had to be terribly careful not to dislodge stones. For us boys the climb was not difficult, but Niko was very clumsy and insecure in his climbing. Hans asked the guide how I was climbing. He said : ‘He, climbs sekrisch well and she too.’ At the top we had a marvellous view; there was no mist at all. Up there in the meteorological station we ate an expensive and mediocre meal. It had the only advantage of being warm. Around five we then descended into the Rein-valley along a very narrow but easy path. At the foot we dismissed the guides and walked alone across a wide snowfield to the Knorr Hut. We arrived shortly before an extremely thick fog settled across the whole valley. There it was also very nice and cosy, however there were too many people there. We spent the night on mattresses again and in the morning in thick fog descended through the Rein valley to Partenkirchen. Soon the fog rose and we followed the most beautiful path you can imagine, along the banks of the Partnach. We saw the falls and the gorge, which are incredibly beautiful and awe inspiring. In the evening we arrived in Garmisch-Partenkirchen and took the train to Schondorf on the Ammersee. Then we walked another two and a half hours in the complete dark to get home. At eleven thirty we arrived and woke the whole house with our dreadful caterwauling. We didn’t get to bed till after midnight. I am not in the slightest tired. Nor are my legs at all stiff. So it obviously didn’t harm me one bit. - This description will give you some idea of the beauty of our tour. Many, many thanks! These holidays were the best I have ever had. (6.8.16)



Ekke’s War Letters
The swearing in:
Lieutenant von der Pfalz first called on all the Prussians to come forward, practically all of the 600 men; those in front placed their left hand on their sword and raised their right hand and then repeated the oath of allegiance which the lieutenant recited to them. I was mightily moved when I saw all those young fellows, many still boys, enthusiastically committing themselves to the fatherland and the Kaiser. I was strongly reminded of the painting by Determann [?] We come to pray that was shown in the exhibition of war paintings two years ago, I think. Then those who were not Prussians were sworn in, every different nationality separately. Coming from Bremen I was last of all and was the only one who had to swear allegiance to the Senate of Bremen, and then of course also to the Kaiser. Then we marched back home and arrived here again at four. - It really was very solemn and moving. 
Our departure was wonderful. People say that even at the start of the war the enthusiasm was not greater; the whole of Naumburg was out and about to wave us a fond farewell. All two-hundred men were festooned with flowers, the Major himself accompanied us to the station, and the band played to the last. We sing as we pass through every station and the people all wave and cheer.

From Passchendaele:
Dear family!
Today I have seen and experienced the most terrible things in my whole life. It is not only a miracle but I must have been in the hands of some supernatural providence to be still alive with sound limbs and more or less healthy. I took part in the great battle of Flanders in the front line. I will have to write in more detail from the position of rest to which we are now being moved because it is already dark and we have no light. For four days we lay in the midst of a bombardment that only let up during the day and towards noon. For two of them we lay in a kind of log hut that was, however, open on all sides and through which the wind and rain just whistled. For the last two days we lay in bomb craters, some of which were half full of water. And there you lie alone or in twos, pressed close to the ground and listen to shells exploding to the right, the left, in front of you and behind you and wait for a direct hit to make a speedy end to it all. This morning, from four till about ten, the bombardment intensified to an unprecedented severity and then the attack followed. Mortars, mortars with delayed action, shrapnel, incendiary bombs and aerial bombs rained down on us, two meters, three meters away from our crater. Positioned beside us, about three meters away, was a light machine gun with three men which received a direct hit. The machine gun fell on the head of one of them, pushed in his steel helmet so that we could hardly pull the helmet off, both legs were also paralysed. We bandaged him up and others carried him back. Shortly after, a direct hit slammed into our hole, two men and me, and buried us in mud so that we just managed to get out. I had two rifles shot to pieces and a hole in my trousers. But in spite of being disarmed, I was not allowed to go back, only when our company commander was seriously wounded. And going back through the bombardment you jumped into craters, over the dead and I must say, the fact that I wallowed back through the mud to the first aid post is amazing, considering the British were hard on our heels and were coming at me with machine guns. The battalion has never experienced the like and has terrible losses. I don’t know what has become of Mootz, he isn’t back yet. More later. I can’t see a thing anymore. Much much love
P.S. By the way, I am almost deaf in one ear. But it’s already getting better. The Tommies had broken through our lines but the second Jäger regiment drove them back.
This morning at seven when I had made it back out of battle for the second time and, physically and mentally tired and numb, had lain down on the straw in a large barrack full of battle-weary, dirty, wet and shivering soldiers, the sergeant came and said I had received a telegram ‘Grandmother passed away peacefully’. I said I had long been expecting it and it hardly moved me at all. I just felt sorry for you, incredibly sorry! And I would have liked to run home and throw my arms around you and pour out my grief-stricken heart to you and tell you that death is of no consequence, it’s nothing, nothing at all. Anyone who saw death as I did is no longer afraid of it and must tell himself that it is better for the person concerned than life. For anyone who is still sensitive to the misery on a battlefield - and thank God I no longer am - must come to the conclusion that life is something bad and that death is a release from evil. Perhaps I am still too affected by my latest impressions, but everyone who has seen all that I have seen and experienced must come to this conclusion.
How I would have loved to see our dear grandmother once more; she must have looked beautiful in death; our dead all have such pain-wracked, gruesome faces. If I had the time, I would recount all my experiences to you. But we are lying on a floor here with a miserable light, and then I still have to clean up my muddy stuff too.
At midday yesterday we went back out to a support line very close to the artillery and there we got all the shells that fell short of their target. There we had one dead. Then we moved to a forward position for the counter-attack to engage the British when they came out from behind their smoke grenades. But they didn’t come. In the midst of the heaviest mortar fire I slept very soundly in a wet crater and dreamt too. Then the call went out: ‘Volunteers to carry the wounded needed’. I was the only corporal to step out and ended up leading eight men forward. We reached the foremost positions by a road which was, however, under fire and completely torn up. Then the route led about a kilometre to the left to the third company of the 16th Jäger. Now you have to imagine the battlefield: there is not a blade of grass to be found, not a tree that is more than a black stump, and one crater after the other full of water, full of mud, full of barbed wire. We eight men now walked along the front line in the pitch-black night; we had to lie flat whenever a flare went up and arrived just as the alarm was sounded that the British were attacking. We were all without weapons, a distinctly uncomfortable feeling. On the way, we were fired on by shells; we just had to get ahead as quickly as possible and consequently fell from one pool of mud into the next. Then we pulled a poor wounded man out of a cellar where he had lain for three whole days and laid him onto a stretcher made of poles and a tarpaulin. Because of the heavy weight we sank knee-deep into the mud each time, had to put the wounded man down and pull each other out of the mud. So it took us about an hour to carry him about 800 meters through the shellfire. On top of all that, the Tommies had discovered us and had their machineguns trained on us. One of us fell into a crater that was full up with water and dislocated his leg, so that later we had to carry him too. You can imagine how grateful the poor chap was to be in dry and tolerable conditions at the main dressing station. In the meantime it was three in the morning and our battalion had already gone back so that we had to search for it from one dead deserted hamlet to the next till six in the morning. To make matters worse, masses of dead lay around on the roads and in the craters so that we often stepped on one of them by mistake. Horses too lie around in great numbers. You can imagine that after that night I was dulled to the sad news about our darling grandmother. Really, it is impossible to imagine such a war, such shell-fire and such mud. But I am blunted to everything and am no longer in the slightest afraid of shells or other dangerous things.
I received your parcel with the cake, the Sanatogen and the cigarettes and your dear letters; thank you very much for them. You can probably imagine what they mean to me. (11.10.17)
Dear parents, dear sisters!
Wrote you a long letter on the 11th but couldn’t finish it before we had to go forward again and now it’s in my pack and I’ll send it out to you as soon as possible. Last night, when we were in the rear again there was a heavy bombardment in front and in the morning the alarm was sounded and we had to go forward again. All day we lay in craters in the rain and around evening we were told to get everything ready for the counter-attack. Under heavy shell-fire we advanced across the miserable, desolate and muddy battlefield and came into such severe machinegun fire and into our own barrage fire, that the dead and wounded were just strewn around me. It didn’t get to close combat because both parties ran off. All night long we looked for our quarters, muddy and drenched to the skin. The casualties are enormous! Gas was also used as well as incendiary bombs etc. Tonight we will be relieved. I am still healthy, only very muddy and wet. Please send me some strong brandy or schnapps. And could you put some wrapping paper and string in the parcel too. Much much love, yours Ekke.(13.10.17)

Did I really not write where we were fighting? Around the village of Passchendaele, on all sides. The village was always in our possession; it is of course only a big ruin and makes a dreadfully desolate impression on you, at night quite eerie. Our action was mainly there. But two nights ago we launched a counter-attack from the railway station of Poelcapelle - it had been completely shot to pieces - which was brilliantly successful, though some of us ran away. The counter-attack was actually something quite strange. All day long we had lain in shell-holes in reserve. The reserve position is much worse than right in front because that is where you get the most artillery fire. It was raining much of the day and the only interesting thing was the aerial battles, in which six Tommies were brought down. One of them came gliding down on his back, a very strange sight. We had to be careful that they didn’t discover us, for we had two dead anyway, both direct hits. Towards evening we were already assuming we could go home, when suddenly the command came: ‘Everyone out of their holes’ - I was just having a nap – ‘and prepare for the counter-attack’. Now we all swarmed out, with bayonets fixed, without hand grenades. My rifle and those of many others was so dirty that I could hardly get the bayonet out. There were also constant rifle jams. As we were advancing, our barrage fire was so far to the rear that we would never have reached the enemy. We also had no flares to give the signal ‘Lift your fire’. (There are three signals for the artillery given by flares - green, red and yellow twin flares: curtain fire, annihilating fire [heavy bombardment] and lift your fire). We did at times come into our own barrage and then also into British artillery and machine-gun fire. There one after the other of my company collapsed. In a moment like that you are yourself quite numbed and don’t feel anything. You are completely stunned by the roaring of the cannons and rifles, as also by the screaming of the wounded, and you only briefly have a vague recollection. You become so indifferent too. I can remember that I lay down in the hole next to my company commander and he called out: ‘Shoot up the enemy machine gun’, impossible as it was night and you could only see the glow. But presumably I will have hit something. But then when they started with gas almost everyone went back. Eventually I couldn’t care about anything anymore and just slung my rifle across my back and strolled comfortably back to the road without jumping from crater to crater and then walked along that till I found one of our men. About ten of us joined the third company and lay in a big crater by the roadside till around midnight and since nobody came to collect us we went back with a non-commissioned officer taking responsibility. Naturally we were covered from head to toe in mud and looked like negroes since the dirt had splashed into our faces. When I was walking back it also got into my eyes, so that I couldn’t see anything for a while and fell into barbed wire, destroying my clothes and ripping my fingers. Overnight we stayed in a house where we chopped up tables and chairs to make a fire so as to warm and dry ourselves a bit at least.
I am surprised at myself that throughout the entire battle I wasn’t in the least nervous and my heart didn’t beat faster at all. That isn’t bravery but inherent indifference.
The Tommies had already advanced when they saw us coming in extended order so that the counter-attack was completely and totally successful. They suffered huge losses and we also took several prisoners. They were all Australians opposite us and I have letters belonging to a fallen Captain from Sydney - Mr G. W. Richardson. I may also get his photos, which somebody else has. A bit later they took off his boots. I must say, there was a lot of looting. A pilot who came down was undressed down to his shirt when he had hardly hit the ground. I think it is really disgusting and of course I didn’t do it, though the enemy are also guilty. Perhaps I can write to the relatives of Mr Richardson after the war. I am sending you the letters.
Mootz too has had a lucky escape and also went through a lot. We are both still quite healthy. Mootz has lost a fair bit of weight.
It is really amazing how flexible young people are and humans as such. Now that things are going well once more, we have forgotten all the pain and can laugh and fool around again.
(Iseghem, 17.10.17)


Action on the Marne, July 1918
Today the worst possible thing happened. Our own 2cm mortars did not shoot far enough and landed two direct hits in our trench. The first one killed two men and wounded a number and the second came down in the place where the trench was a little wider and where Lieutenant Meinecke and I and five others were squatting. Five men were dead, Lieutenant Meinecke seriously wounded, and I, yes I really don’t know how it came about, I didn’t even get a splinter and wasn’t unconscious either. (19.7.18)

At 4.45am I ran to my platoon, gave the last commands and then arranged the men in the order in which they were to mount the attack. [...] Going through the valley was as strenuous as anything I have encountered, since it was first filled with gunpowder smoke and then with our gas which had been blown back. In the end you went into contortions to get air. Up on the ridge the company captured the first machine-gun nests and a whole lot of prisoners. Then we went down again through the vineyards in the valley, across a broad stream and past the eastern border of Menicourt. And there we lost contact with the battalion to our left and right and there the French artillery also started up again. Up to the beginning of Orcourt we had no casualties. But suddenly massive machinegun fire hit us from three sides, and the first men fell or were wounded. Strauss ran forward into the village with his group and I wanted to follow with mine shortly afterwards. But we were met with such gunfire from the houses that I got the men to lie down again and first let off a salvo into the window. Before those inside then dared to look out, we had already leaped into the first house; took a number of prisoners who gave us chocolate and champagne and a few other things from out of the houses. Then we worked our way through the gardens to the other end of the village. There Meinecke was positioned with his group and had already discovered a machine-gun nest. I got them to shoot my light machine-gun at it and the shock troops were then to work their way forward under its protection. But so many of the men were immediately shot by marksmen on the trees that I and the lieutenant could convince ourselves that it was quite impossible to make headway. We were all lying low in a furrow and the fellow aimed so well that he shot through our satchels only millimetres above us. We lay like that for almost an hour without being able to move. Schoof had received a shot in the stomach and Müller and I bandaged him with great difficulty, lying on our stomachs. Eventually I took the daring decision to jump up suddenly and run about 40m into the next house. Because I was running, the marksman couldn’t aim properly and so I got through unscathed. I wanted to mobilize the heavy machine-guns but these had enough to do with the machineguns around them. I then leaped further ahead and into a crater, just in time to make myself small because the machine-gun had seen me only too well and was shooting just above the rim of the crater so that the missiles lodged in the wall opposite. I then got my men, who were still lying on the exposed field in front of the village, to jump back into the first house which was thereupon prepared for the defence. From ten till six at night my platoon then defended Orcourt all on its own. We shot down many, many Frenchmen and took revenge on the marksmen. I sent those who were not on guard duty into the village to plunder what we needed. They brought coffee, sugar, chocolate, bread, jam, tins etc. etc. More of this another time. (23.7.18)
Armistice
My last letter was tripe. At the time I was with the transport people and about to go out to a position. I just didn’t want to worry you. But now it’s okay to tell you. We are two kilometres behind the front line in an undestroyed village in white beds and are awaiting the armistice. Not a shot is being fired. [...] It should come tonight or tomorrow. Hindenburg has already issued an order that there is revolution at home, so to speak, and we out here should at least remain disciplined to the end. (10.11.18)



Hejaz
Three weeks after his arrival in February 1925, Ekke was invited to participate in the festival celebrating the ninth anniversary of Arab liberation from Turkish suzerainty.
In the morning everyone of importance in Jiddah called on the King to shake his hand and congratulate him. We did too, of course. Later, all the officers of the Hejaz army etc. were assembled at the house of the Minister for War and coffee with myrrh was passed around. That was done in the genuine Arab manner where you can’t be too ‘finicky’. A servant holds two cups without handles in one hand and with the other pours two or three drops into the cups from a finely crafted silver jug; you drink them up immediately. The next person then gets his drop from the same unwashed cup, so that in the end ten or twelve men have drunk from the same cup. Hardly a word was spoken so that the festivity resembled a funeral more than a joyous occasion. Apologies were then made to us Germans that this was not the normal way of celebrating, but the country was at war. We said that we too were of the hope that the capital Mecca would soon be in the hands of the Government once more, and that was the end of the conversation. Twenty shots were then fired at the enemy, in the course of which one of our cannons broke. This was accompanied by music and the people cheered up to the King’s palace. (6.3.25)
That night the festivities continued and Ekke described them next day:
The immediate occasion was a celebration for the Minister for War, Tessim Pasha, his adjutant who is also the Minister for the Navy, and the Minister for Health, who all have great deserts with respect to the freedom and independence of Arabia. The festival turned into a real demonstration for the independence of Arabia, which is to be achieved from here. For Jiddah, what remains of the Kingdom of Hejaz, is the only part of Arabia which is completely free of European or other influence. The offensive, which is to begin next Friday, will first destroy the few trouble-makers, the Wahhabis, whom the British are encouraging to wage war against tribes of their own people, since Britain has an interest in Arab dissension. So Britain is not on the side of the Government of Hejaz, though on the surface it is benevolently neutral. Later the push is to be extended and the French chased out of Syria, the British out of Mesopotamia and Palestine etc., assuming it should not be possible to achieve this by means of the League of Nations. Nearly all the officers here are Syrians, expelled from their homeland by the French. Fifty per cent of them have already been condemned to death. The French seem to be behaving just as they did with us on the Rhine. But the Arabs are better at hating than we are. The festivities yesterday were conducted more or less in the following way.
On a large open square a canopy was erected with splendid divans placed before it and the ground in front of it covered with huge, magnificent rugs. Around this carpeted square three to four rows of chairs were erected. In the middle were tables with lamps. To the right and left two good military bands. On the divans sat the three gentlemen who were to be honoured and, as representative of the king who never participates personally in such mass assemblies, an Arab prince, also a descendent of Mohamed. On the chairs sat the entire corps of officers and civil servants, and we too. Behind us many thousands of the people. It began with a prayer chanter sitting down on one of the chairs in the centre of the rectangle with crossed legs, facing towards Mecca, and chanting about twenty surahs of the Koran. [...]
Second on the agenda was the song, the song of hatred that the Syrians sang when they left their home, which song has now been adapted as the Arabic national anthem by replacing ‘Damascus’ with ‘Mecca’. I will send Gerda the music in the next mail.
Then came the great speeches. Coffee was served, then more speeches were given, a poem recited by a twelve-year-old girl and finally Arabic songs were sung by all the people, continuing till far into the night. It was a magnificent picture which we had directly in front of our window, quite unreal in its partly artificial, partly moonlit illumination. (7.3.25)
Three months later:
For Hejaz is lost and I predict that it will not last for another five weeks. No money, no soldiers (1200 men) scandalous leadership, a king who is too kind and soft surrounded by a pack of scoundrels of quite amazingly clever wickedness and corruption who make it impossible to attract intelligent men, have driven away the only good people and strong men who were working unselfishly for the cause, and are robbing the government brilliantly. (Reason for the bankruptcy). [...] All the freedom-loving Syrian officers who had hoped to win the liberty of their fatherland and realize the great Arab ideal of unity using Hejaz, the only independent kingdom, for their base, are now withdrawing and changing sides, for Ibn Sa’ud does actually appear to be a kind of Arab Bismarck and is at present the greatest and strongest prince. Ibn Sa’ud has recently been sent 30,000 Indian soldiers and it appears that the Muslim world, which is suffering greatly from this war in respect of its pilgrims, is siding with Ibn Sa’ud. The civilians in Jiddah are also opposed to the government, which is without question bad, but don’t dare to do anything as the time has apparently not been ripe as yet. In a European setting things could not go on like this for more than eight days. But Arabia is unpredictable. (1.6.25)  



Bandar-e Lengeh on the Persian Gulf (on the Way to Teheran)
Around sunset, we went on land, had a look at the town which is built entirely like a fortress and is one of the most typical oriental towns I have seen, and then started off along the beach under the direction of two black guides. One of them carried the knapsack, the other the lantern as the moon was only due to rise later. After two or three hours we reached the village of Kong, where our ‘hatshi’ (guide) took us to the rich Sheik of Kong. He invited us into his house and, softly bedded on superb Persian rugs, we enjoyed a rich meal of eggs, fruits, bread and tea. The Sheik spoke Arabic and I had no difficulty communicating with him. We stayed in this hospitable house till around twelve and showed our gratitude with the gift of a bottle of quinine that is highly valued here. Then we went on through the desert into the mountains. But here Hatshi I and Hatshi II did not want to go on any further. They pointed to a mountain ridge, said ‘Jier Kuh’ (Mountain), crawled into a cave and were fast asleep next minute. The fellows were afraid, that was all. They constantly saw ghosts, jackals, wolves and robbers lurking which they wanted to scare off with loud shouts. So there we were in the middle of the night in these desolate and mysterious rocky mountains and could go no further because those damned Hatshi did not want to any more. We then crawled into the cave next door, made a fire from herbs and what could be found and told each other stories and jokes till we eventually went to sleep too. But around four it became so cold that we packed up and since the hatshis did not want to go on into the mountains, we went back to the sea, sent the lazy fellows home to Lengeh and were rewarded with a magnificent sunrise. On our way back we were invited into their gardens by rich Persians a number of times, drank tea, and admired the beautiful date trees, the fig trees, the fragrant jasmine bushes and the ancient wells. Everyone was glad we were Germans. In Lengeh, in the meantime, the hatshis had told the whole town about us and when we arrived a huge crowd was waiting for us. It was great fun and very interesting. We were then taken to the ship in a heavy rowing boat. The black oarsmen sang very strange chants as they rowed; the helmsman as choir leader sang the text in monotone and the others all sang the refrain; sounds one will never forget. (9.12.25)


Rabaul, the strike of native workers, 2 and 3 December, 1928.

To his father: After a good trip I arrived here on 27 December, 1928. Thurston had gone down to the Drina and Palmalmal with the Nusa and had taken a number of people to celebrate Christmas and the New Year. [He] came back on 2 January. He is sticking by what he told me earlier, but hasn’t paid all his debts yet and doesn’t know whether he can start this month. The Nusa is running well. I have consequently applied for a tally job so as to earn at least some money while I am waiting. Today is Sunday and two copra ships have arrived but I don’t yet know whether I have been accepted. I won’t find out before tomorrow.
In the meantime, you will have read in the newspapers that we have had a strike and mutiny here and that the situation, though not dangerous as concerns the safety of the inhabitants, is so with regard to the whole future of the labour question. The campaign was well organised, apparently by the Methodist missionaries, so that the kanakas themselves shed their prejudices towards other races and tribes and almost four thousand workers and kanakas left the town and the plantations overnight without a single official or private person having the slightest knowledge of this. [...] [E]ven today about half of them are still in the bush and in the mountains around Rabaul and the government has as yet not been able to apprehend the main culprits and ringleaders and round up the kanakas who have run off.
This is not really so bad but it is the beginning of emancipation and it won’t be long and they will be of no use to us any more. All the people whose judgement one values, myself included, are of the opinion that the country here has had it. The workers want higher wages and better conditions and even now it is hardly possible to run a plantation economically. Consequently, just imagine how unprofitable it will be when they actually push through higher wages. And even if the higher wages are not conceded, it will later become impossible to get workers anymore. But on a plantation you cannot calculate from one day to the next but have to think ahead ten years. Thurston is also very pessimistic. Several resolutions have been put to the government, among them also the introduction of absolutely essential corporal punishment, but it is fairly unlikely that it will be passed. On top of that, the white people even now cannot agree and there were heated debates in the meeting yesterday. I really do not know what to do now. Anyway, I will wait how events unfold and what Thurston decides. But if things are going to develop as they appear to at the moment, there is no sense in aiming at a plantation. It would be completely useless and wasted effort.

To his mother: And now a little about my plans. As I wrote in my last letter, nothing has come of the Drina project. [...] [A]s you know, we have had a strike here with the mutiny of the entire police force. That was on 2 and 3 January. Rabaul, where there are usually thousands of black boys, labourers and domestics and which has approximately 250 armed black police soldiers, was totally deserted overnight without a white man or anyone else having noticed. All had gone out to the missions which were supposed to be the rallying point. Higher wages were demanded and statements were made by the blacks that if the white man wouldn’t agree, black and white blood would mingle. The missions were sensible enough not to send the boys back as they would have posed a risk for the town in their agitated state. After much palaver and threats to and fro they finally decided to return, with the government displaying incredible weakness. The white population took over the security of the town ( they didn’t want us Germans, later even blamed us for the uprising, quite publicly in the newspapers, and we have now started legal proceedings with the purpose of having the matter investigated and revoked). But not all the boys returned, only a section. The others camped in the hills around Rabaul. At night you saw thousands of little fires burning. Finally it all petered out, the ringleaders were punished with a few years prison and the entire police contingent was condemned to three years forced labour, road building in New Guinea. The result is, however, the beginning of the end of the rule of the white race over the black. [...] It may take many years, perhaps even centuries, but it will come. The percentage of boys who have worked with white people is of course small in relation to the entire population of New Guinea. For in the interior there are still millions who have never seen a white man. In my opinion and according to my observations, the idea [for the strike] originally came from the steamers and the strike and the mutiny were instigated by agents of the Ethiopian Movement who arrive here as stokers on the ships and use the opportunity to speak to the kanakas and stir them up. Anyway, the government has already raised wages, decreased working hours etc. and the kanakas have actually won. And as the ringleaders themselves said when they prevailed on the people to return to their masters, this time we didn’t quite make it but next time we will be successful. And so wages will be constantly rising and the plantations, which even today with the low price of copra can hardly be made to pay, will become completely unprofitable. Something similar has already happened in the case of rubber and it is on the cards that the same thing will happen with copra. Anyway, I won’t risk putting ten years of money and work, and the best years of my life at that, into such an unprofitable undertaking. I have written that to Father too who wrote back with the last mail that I was to come to Sydney again. But I called that off as I already have other plans. (17.2.29)
The Ethiopian Movement was a black African Christian movement that grew out of the Anglican and Methodist churches in southern Africa in the late 19th century. It opposed white supremacy and advocated religious and social reform.


On the Mainland of New Guinea
I can assure you that I have not felt as well and healthy for years and also not been as happy and serene as during the time that Baum and I have been gone from Rabaul. This is an area that is more beautiful than the Allgäu, with a milder climate, eternally blue sky and at 1500 metres its air makes breathing and living a delight. Baum is a fine person; there has not been the slightest friction between us and we have often laughed so much that our sides hurt next day. And all from sheer joy of living. Something akin to a nightmare has been lifted off my soul and I feel more free within myself than I have felt at almost any other time, certainly in such an enduring measure.  (23.3.29)
 The kanakas themselves are the finest types that I have seen so far. They look as though they were a mixture of Negroid, Mongolian and Arab. Some of them have very delicate faces, quite European and often not in the least Negroid. And what is astounding is that they all have a well developed sense of humour and even if the work is strenuous they are always in a merry mood. I have never seen so many happy faces in one place before. My current line of workers too is constantly laughing and at night there is no end to the stories they still have to tell each other. (6.4.29)
Diary on the Jilek
29.5.29 (Wednesday) Go up to a spot 500 metres from the waterfall with all the boys and position the box so that I can sluice. A huge job to dam the water. Takes till midday. Then worked the box for about two hours till heavy rain came, so heavy that in about half an hour the river could no longer be crossed and we had to do a huge detour through the pathless bush and across the mountains to get home. The constant rain is most annoying. Wet through in spite of raincoat. House also leaked. Everyone wet.
30.5.29 (Thursday) Worked with the sluice box all day but without much success since I have not yet reached the bottom; dig a trench up the river-bed to find the bottom. Then rain, wash pans. The first one very good reef gold. Must be close. Feet still very bad. The right one is swelling again. Will rest it on Saturday and Sunday. Unfortunately can’t wear the gumboots. In the evening read letters from Eri [ the German girl-friend who had died] and Ami till very late. Got terribly upset. Am not over the business with either of them. Right in the middle of it with Ami. Thought of a novella based on the song ‘Brüderlein, Schwesterlein’.
31.5.29 (Friday) Set out early with the boys. Worked on the trench. But not found anything yet, or rather not deep enough yet. But so far it is looking good. In the morning, mist and fine rain. Then in the afternoon good weather with dark blue sky. Pay the boys today. Monthly wages. Legs and feet etc. still very bad. Constantly pussy in spite of treatment. Next month I will be thirty. Good God!
1.6.29 (Saturday) In the afternoon worked on the trench. Then dismissed all the boys around 3 pm. Cleaned my wounds carefully, treated them and bandaged them. Read and wrote. Today the first day without rain for a long time. Am not going to Mapos this week so as to rest my legs. Read till three in the morning.
2.6.29 (Sunday) In camp all day. Read and write. Long letter to Inge and Joachim. Then did Russian and learnt a great deal, till late in the evening.
3.6.29 (Monday) Stay in the camp. Boys work on the trench all day. Kanakas from Quassang bring kaikai [food], enough for about two weeks. News that Baum is in Katumene. Send him a letter.
4.6.29 (Tuesday) Go to Mapos in the morning. Arrive around midday. Zavil and Rarak have a fever. Am not feeling too well myself. Baum isn’t coming till tomorrow.
5.6.29 (Wednesday) Write to Leo in the morning. Baum arrives around lunch-time. Long talk-talk. He has had no success in the new area. Got about 60oz. in Surprise Creek.
6.6.29 (Thursday) Sick with influenza and malaria. Very bad. Hardly see Baum. Treat myself with Plasmochin and Aspirin. Caught relapse in Salamaua. In bed all day. Four of my boys who were down [on the coast] with me also have it.
7.6.29 (Friday) Still very sick. Baum leaves in the morning for Salamaua. Lie in bed all day. Robbi comes and visits me.

The native workers on the Jilek 
There is ‘Djong’: He is terribly ugly and just as funny. He knows it and is always able to make me laugh. I can tell if the others have got up to something because Djong will try particularly hard to be funny.
‘Ghabärgk’ with whom I can never be angry because he is so consummately beautiful in looks, movements and nature. He is almost a little too girlish.
‘Girin’ gets terrible stomach aches every now and again because he wants to eat expensive rice rather than cheap sweet potatoes. But I have broken the habit with firmness and a good dose of Epsom Salts. Now the kau-kaus taste okay again.
‘Arung’, my boss-boy and ‘Lunge’ have mumps. I rub them with arnica, for want of anything better, and wrap them in red lava-lavas so they look like peasant women with a toothache.
‘Boghom’ is a bit crazy and besides that he is substitute boss-boy. Every now and then he approaches me, yells ‘Master!!’ at me with a face full of dismay and terror so that I think there is a lion in the bushes or that something terrible has happened. When I then ask him what’s up, he keeps on looking at me like that for a while and then tells me that it is raining or that ‘Zavil’ is coming with the food.
‘Zavil’ is my house-boy, clean, intelligent, good-looking and practical, bakes good scones and is the friend of Lump, my dog. The others are not allowed to touch Lump.
‘Nun’ or ‘Non’ is the toad of the group. He is always singing with a voice unsuitable for that purpose, has a huge head and even larger eyes and long thin legs. Every now and again he will sit on the ground next to my bed, look at me for hours with his goggle-eyes and play on his Jew’s harp.
The same goes for ‘Speer’. The latter is, by the way, quite Jewish in looks and nature.
Tomorrow ‘Non’ is going to marry though he is probably less than 17 years old.
Another time I’ll write more about these interesting types; you can tell, with respect to both looks and character, down to half a percentage point, how much Mongolian, Malayan, Semitic (Arab) and Negro blood runs in their veins. ‘Arung’ for instance is almost pure Mongolian, ‘Girin’ Wahabi or Arab, Djong 80% Negro etc. You can find almost pure Wahabi types and in the language too I have found surprising similarities with Arabic and Persian, though I don’t know enough of it yet to be able to say whether that is just coincidence or whether there really are connections. I am assuming the latter as the physiognomies also seem to indicate that. If ‘Ghabärgk’ were white he would be a pure Aryan-Semitic mix.

Up in the mountains the other day I discovered large and varied cave paintings the origins of which the local kanakas attribute to Anotu, i. e. God. They are almost certainly of cultural and historic importance and are amazingly similar to Polynesian paintings. I shall try to photograph them although it will be quite difficult as one would really have to stand in mid air to get a good shot from the front. (20.4.29)


The Expedition
Soltwedel and the geologist arrived in Salamaua a few days ago. In Rabaul, a prospecting company has been founded whose shareholders or financiers are nearly all Germans. They have employed a geologist who is very experienced and a very nice person and who is a Russian on top of that! Up to twelve months prospecting in the interior. Hired my boys for 2/3s a day, a very high fee, no wages for me, but food, transport etc. free and the option to invest in the company at any time.
The contract is exceptionally favourable for me since I have almost no expenses, earn about ₤85 a month and can put that money into the company if I see that something worthwhile has been discovered. On top of that, I am free to go along or not and can leave the expedition at any time. The expedition is ideally put together. Soltwedel is familiar with the area and the country, the geologist Zakharov with the minerals, and I, the ‘caravanchi’, the jack of all trades, am responsible for the boys, the portage etc.
By the way, I have had another prophetic dream. After receiving the telegram ‘Coming with geologist’ I had an exact vision of the face of Zakharov and also dreamt that he was a Russian and that I was conversing with him in Russian. Funny, isn’t it? Zakharov wants to learn German from Solti, French from me and I Russian from him so that with Pidgin and the Mapos language, which I speak a little, our scrambling around in the mountains will be a little like scaling the Tower of Babel. (6.8.29)

After the expedition has been abandoned
We have really had extraordinarily bad luck, from start to finish. Quite apart from the fact that others always arrived ahead of us wherever we went and pegged off good sites in front of our noses, we had to contend with illness. First: Soltwedel and Zakharov with dysentery. After they had been cured we went out again with renewed energy. Soltwedel and Zakharov went ahead to our first destination, the village of Piaru on the dividing range between here and Papua. I arrived about eight days later to find Soltwedel sick again with dysentery and Zakharov with an abscess on the liver. On the way, I had a bit of diarrhoea but didn’t take much notice and then discovered in Piaru that I too had bad dysentery. Now all three of us were sick and a good six days march for a healthy person from the next place where one could have got help or medicine. Zakharov soon became so ill that Soltwedel and I feared for his life. We therefore decided to carry him out. Solti was so sick and weak through loss of blood and the starvation diet, he could barely stand on his legs and Zakharov couldn’t even sit up in bed by himself. We sent boys to Wau to get medication (injections) for Soltwedel and me and to book a plane to the Waria drome for Zakharov; that was three to four days from where we were camped. I didn’t start treatment as I wanted to keep my strength up and, contrary to the rules for dysentery, ate three big meals a day, for it was quite impossible to send Zakharov alone with the boys. We (Zakharov and I) then set out, Zakharov lying on a stretcher carried by four boys. For the first four days our way took us across extraordinary mountains over 9000 foot high and always through the densest bush. On these four days every step first had to be cleared with the machete. On the evening of the fourth day we then reached the Waria valley and that meant better tracks and occasionally large areas of kunai grass where we could make quicker progress. On the afternoon of the eighth day, we then reached Gareina, the air-field. Zakharov now had moments where he was conscious and I could see that he was dying and had been for the last three days. He was vomiting up almost an egg-cup of bile and puss every five minutes and the infection had already spread to his chest. For the last night, I sat beside him all the time and he realized then that he was dying. On the morning after our arrival he died at round about ten o’clock. I then buried him on the evening of the same day. (Because of the heat you always have to do that quickly here.) At 7 pm a messenger arrived with the news that Baum (the man with whom I went to Mapos earlier) was in the next village. Next day he arrived. And the following morning he then left to look after Soltwedel in Piaru. I was going to wait for him in Gareina and treat myself with castor oil and dieting. But two hours after he left us the plane that we had ordered arrived, again the little Moth with which I had flown to Salamaua earlier. It had been booked for Monday but because of bad weather and storms it did not arrive till Saturday. We first had to improve the drome for the start and when a heavy storm came up in the afternoon we had to camp there for another night. We then warmed up the motor in the dark and at first light flew the one and a half hours to Wau where we landed to regulate something on the motor. (On the way two cylinders had constantly cut out and the Moth only has four.) Then after an hour, we took off again for Salamaua and there I went straight to hospital where Dr Sinclair, who earlier fixed up my arm, diagnosed severe dysentery (50% blood and 50% mucus), told me I would have to spend 3-4 weeks in hospital and wouldn’t believe that I had had it for twenty days and had walked with it for about fifteen of them. After four days my digestion was quite normal again and after eight days I was discharged as cured and today I am just as healthy again as I was before. A few days ago, I sent the plane back to the Waria since I hadn’t had any news of Soltwedel and heard that Baum was with him. Soltwedel had received the injections and was quite okay again and would fly out to Wau in a few days time. Hasn’t arrived yet but I am expecting him any day. ‘Headquarters’ in Rabaul have issued the order to abandon the expedition and so I have decided to go to Sydney with the Montoro in early April. (26.2.30)         

The Murder of Baum
Helmuth Baum, was Ekke’s most influential mentor in New Guinea. He seemed to have had no enemies. In consequence, news of his murder in May 1931 which reached Ekke in Berlin sent shock waves through the colony. Lloyd Rhys (High Lights and Flights in New Guinea, London, 1942) writes about him in the following terms:
Helmuth Baum had an unusual combination of qualities; those of a good business man plus those of a good bushman and explorer. He was an accountant by profession, and that he had considerable ability is evidenced by the fact that one of his last jobs in that capacity was to finalize, alone, the accounts of the German New Guinea Company, a concern with a capital of about one million pounds. It was his bush experience, however, that made him renowned throughout New Guinea. He was only forty-two years of age when he was killed. It is doubtful if any man in the territory was ever held in greater esteem by both Germans and Australians. He had some magnetic power that drew people to him, even the natives at his bush camps were affected by his manner. [...]
Baum was a man a little over medium height, but broad and strongly built. His gentle manner and softly spoken voice seemed to intensify a natural shyness, for long years of lonely travel had made him very much of a recluse [...] Yet there was nothing secretive or avaricious about his working, for when a man came to his camp he was as generous as any. He would give food and clothing that could be ill spared. He helped many a destitute miner with ground, supplies and boys. His hospitality was spoken of on all the fields. [...]
For all his shyness, Baum, during contact with his fellow men, enjoyed their company and they seemed to enjoy his. Once the bond of friendship was formed, his keen sense of humour made him a jolly companion and he endeared himself by his generous nature which made him believe in the good in every man. He was a super-optimist and believed in the kindliness and goodness of his fellows, qualities which he possessed himself and which he could never realize that others did not possess also. Like many another such optimist his simple faith kept him poor all his life, and many of those whom he helped later let him down when they themselves had arrived at a more prosperous state. [...]
All through the country Baum had a good name among the natives. Everywhere he went his correctness and honesty in dealing with them became his password. He would never accept any presents, and if he had to take food from a deserted village he always left ample payment in trade goods in some conspicuous place. Should a casual labourer or carrier break his promise or run away before the completion of an arranged task, Baum would send payment to him for such work as had been done. He was always friendly and honest with them, but any attempt at familiarity was firmly and promptly dealt with. [...]
Wherever he went he carried with him a small tin of mixed seeds which he collected personally. At each camp he would plant a few, thus leaving his trail, not as so many have done by ring-barked trees and scarred, torn timber, but by a new and luxurious growth of flower and fruit.(98-102)[1]
The young Australian Mick Leahy was one of the men Baum helped. Mick and a companion encountered Baum on their return from Edie Creek when Mick had just lost his lease due to lack of funds. After providing the down-and-out men with hospitality, Baum offered Mick a job supervising a claim he had pegged on the Upper Wattut. In his biography of Mick’s brother Dan, Kuni Dan, John Fowke writes of Baum:
Helmuth Baum was almost a legend among the prospecting fraternity of New Guinea. A cultured man of German origin he had spent most of his life in New Guinea, having been a trader and coconut planter for years before the Australian invasion in 1914. In the early twenties he had been a leader in the vanguard of gold prospectors in the Morobe District.
Baum had made many trips into uncontrolled country. His Spartan lifestyle whilst on these trips, the comparative luxury, even splendour, of his camp when not, and the good relationship he enjoyed with his native employees and the local people wherever he went, set him apart.  (24/25)[1]
Mick Leahy, who suffered a near fatal attack by Kukakuka natives at about the same time Baum was murdered, gives the following account of the event in his biography Exploration into Highland New Guinea, 1930-1935:
We were also shocked to hear from Sanson that my good friend Helmuth Baum had been murdered by the Kukakukas and most of his boys butchered with him. [...]
The cold-blooded murder of Baum, the cannibalistic devouring of his decapitated body, and the callous and determined hunting down and hacking to death of most of his unarmed and very timid Buang carriers shocked me into the realization that perhaps the so-called experts regarding primitive man’s reactions were suffering from too much purely academic knowledge. Some of these experts had apparently never encountered a primitive savage in his natural element and did not know that he would suspect any strange two-legged human of being an enemy just waiting to murder a native and his people. [...]
Baum was an idealist about the natives. He carried a couple of shot-guns with which to shoot game for his boys and himself but never allowed his boys to keep a gun in their leaf-covered lean-tos when they camped. He was quite sure that the noble savage would never attack him without provocation. He scrupulously paid for all foodstuffs or services in trade or steel, and in these isolated areas any trade was many times the value of food for a few boys, if indeed there was such a notion of relative values for such unrelated barter articles in New Guinea’s remote ranges.
According to the natives, Baum’s party had been visited by a few Kukas late in the evening when they were building their camps beside a fast-running mountain stream in the bush-covered ranges. The natives had stayed on until near dark. After telling Baum in sign language that they would bring him some native foodstuffs the next day, they faded into the bush along a faint pad recognizable from the bent-over bushes.
Baum’s sleeping arrangement under his eight-by-ten-foot fly was a narrow bed of thin sticks rigged onto the forked saplings holding up the ridgepole of his tent. A piece of canvas for a mattress and his single blanket were all the bed he ever carried. His boys built their open-sided lean-tos from moss-covered saplings. ... Baum stowed all his trade, steel knives, and tomahawks, together with his shotguns and cartridges, under his sapling bed before he went to sleep. His confidence in the natives’ integrity and goodwill was beyond question. Just at daylight he awoke to find a few Kukas holding small bilums (net carrying bags) of sweet potatoes and waiting at the foot of his bed to barter for beads. These Kukas at the foot of his bed distracted his attention for long enough to enable another Kuka, waiting at the other end of his bed, to bring his stone pineapple club down on Baum’s head before he could rise. The killer then picked up one of Baum’s long trade knives and hacked off his head. In the meantime, the ambushers had closed in on the carriers and clubbed or shot arrows into the now panicked and fleeing Buang boys. A few escaped into the surrounding bush. Had it not been for the irresistible attraction of looting Baum’s camp, not one of them would ever have reached a police post in Bulolo to report the incident.
District officer Eric Feldt and patrol officer Nick Penglase spent three weeks tracking down and bringing in the murderers. Their effort involved travel, hardship, and tenacity of purpose equal to any recorded for law enforcement in any part of the world. The murderers were not hanged. They served a term of imprisonment – the first stage in primitive man’s introduction to law and order. Baum’s body was never found. Only recently [early 1960s] I talked to an old Buang native whose claim to have been in Baum’s party may have reflected his anticipation of remuneration for his hearsay account. He was emphatic that Baum had been eaten. The body, according to this informant, had been cut up into small pieces and cooked in short lengths of bamboo which were carried back to the villages to the women and children. Some parts had just been thrown onto hot coals and eaten on the spot half raw. (42-44) [1]
For Ekke the shock of Baum’s murder was perhaps even greater than for Mick, for he had  not only lost an exceptional friend but, according to first accounts, also twelve of his boys. Ekke had written to Baum just a few days before his death to thank him for a far too generous payment for trade goods left in Mapos which Baum had taken over. After receiving Soltwedel’s telegram he wrote to Burggraf in Sydney:
I just want to inform you by this post that I have received a terrible telegram from New Guinea. Baum has been murdered by Wattut kanakas at Surprise Creek or the Odibanda with twelve boys. I have seldom been so shocked by any news. Just recently I had received a short letter from him, saying that he was working at Surprise Creek, had already retrieved the costs of his last expedition and was beginning to make a profit. You will remember that he took over all my boys and he wrote that he had divided the twenty-four of them up between himself and Schmidtburgk who was working at Roaring Creek or the Weganda. Schmidtburgk had Beak as his boss boy and Baum Zavil. The latter is presumably also among the slain. Baum paid Naie off and he is now working under another master at Edie Creek. So he is not among them. I cannot tell which of the other boys was there but presume that Mock was because he had earlier worked with Baum before he came to me.
The only way I can think of to explain what happened is that a certain Fordyce whom I also know, who still owes me several pounds and who is a real swine and constantly had trouble with the natives when we were in Mapos, is responsible. Soltwedel wrote to me that he was on the Irua, a neighbouring river to the Surprise and is supposed to have found ‘lumps of gold’ there. He must have committed improprieties against the kanakas which were not reported as the Wattut kanakas are not under control; and now the kanakas have taken revenge on the next best white man. For Baum could handle the kanakas better than anyone else and had long been familiar with the Wattut people who all had great respect for him. Anyway, that is how it seemed to us when they mentioned his name and showed the iron implements they had received from him.
Apparently Soltwedel wants to go and avenge Baum for he telegraphed at the same time about Bergmann rifles which are light machine guns that take about thirty cartridges of the same variety you use for Mauser pistols. I will send him a prospectus of what is on offer but he should keep out of it as the government is bound to get him for murder. But I can understand him and would probably be the first to commit such foolishness were I there. On the other hand, one can never get the fellows, only burn down their houses and destroy their gardens.
Poor Baum, he was over there for twenty years, trying to earn money to return home one day, has made a greater contribution to the opening up of the country than anyone else and in the end had to succumb in a place no one would have anticipated. (5.5.1931)
There is no record whether Ekke ever found out which of his boys had been killed. A report in the Salamaua News claims that eight of the presumably twelve boys, including ‘the little cook-boy’ (Naie?), who was apparently back with Baum, survived the attack. 


Germany during the Great Depression of the early thirties
First, the impossibility of gaining professional employment or even a minimally lucrative position in spite of all my vigorous attempts and in spite of drawing on all the connections that I could muster. Eventually you just give up the search. You tell yourself: there is simply nothing that can be done at the moment; you just have to wait till the times change and you are needed again somewhere. And then when you realize that it isn’t your fault but the result of circumstances in Germany and in the world, you overcome the inferiority complex that has gradually developed and begin to face up to yourself once more.  The recognition that this wasn’t happening only to me but to thousands upon thousands of young German fellows, however capable, was a reassurance and this way you quite naturally began to concern yourself with politics. You told yourself that somewhere in the old economic and social order there must be a massive error in calculation if it was possible that the hands of so many good and willing workers lay idle and that the knowledge and the competence of hundreds of thousands of academically trained young people was of no use, since they were in no position to apply it, be it for the benefit of society or to earn their own meagre living. And the more you studied matters related to these problems, the more you realized how incompetent the responsible groups in Germany and the world were proving, the clearer it became that the old economic and political system will never manage to deal with the crisis, neither in Germany nor in the rest of the world. It became ever more obvious that capitalism and imperialism in their current forms have failed, that the liberalism of the last 150 years has come to an end, and that something completely new must now begin. – So it came about that you turned to the radical movements in Germany, those inspired by some kind of idealism, and there searched for a way out of the great common emergency of the German people and attempted to envisage an image of the future there. For in the end it is Germany, and Germany alone, with everything that is a part of this concept, the body as well as the soul of the German national and cultural complex, that you were looking for and that concerned you and that we want to save from complete destruction, slavery and alienation. -  There are people in Germany and, still more, out in the world, who believe that the crisis is a temporary breakdown in the machinery of the world economy of the kind that has occurred time and again. But those that look closely will recognize that this is the end and the dissolution of a whole epoch of history and that the many intellectual, political and religious movements and passions are the birth pangs of a new epoch. Only once you have realized that, is it possible to approach things appropriately and fit the individual symptoms and movements meaningfully into the overriding current that determines the direction of our times. (9.8.1932)  
Expulsion from Germany because of Black Front activities
Very nearly the business of my departure would have gone wrong after all. I couldn’t bear the thought of going away for so long without talking to my comrades first. So I drove out to Brandenburg eight days before the steamer was due to leave and with great difficulty and many words managed to persuade the commandant of the concentration camp to allow me to speak to two men at least, although that contravened all the rules of the camp. I then spoke for more than half an hour with Brinkmann, the man who was arrested in my presence in Leba some months back, and with Kübler. Of course it was in the presence of SS-men. We didn’t speak about politics at all. But Brinkmann informed me that all the fellows had signed a declaration promising not to be politically active once released and to disassociate themselves from Otto Strasser’s political activity abroad. They hope that will accelerate their release. But as yet nothing has happened. – I had undertaken this visit without the knowledge of the political police. Next day, however, they were already informed and I was summoned by my ‘friend’ once more. He intended to have me imprisoned in spite of the exit permit I had already obtained and also to finish off the commandant. After talking for two hours and using all the psychology at my disposal, I finally managed to reach a point where he said that he would close both eyes, I was to make tracks as quickly as possible and he would also spare the commandant. The commandant, who heard about this, said that he was stronger than my ‘friend’, who had no means of hurting him; about this I was particularly glad because our fellows are treated exceptionally well under this commandant. So everything worked out after all, I could say good-bye to my mates and nobody was the worse for it. The fellows were extremely happy about my visit and I have a good conscience having fulfilled a comradely duty and now know that I am not begrudged my ‘luck’, on the contrary. So that’s that.
The departure from Germany went without incident. Irmhild accompanied me to the boat in Bremen. We had left a day early and spent a very nice day out in Worpswede with my friend Manfred Hausmann where we also spent the night. Manfred and his wife then drove us to the ship next morning but upon my request did not wait for its departure since Irmhild was finding the farewell quite difficult and it always takes an eternity before a ship like that actually leaves. (Needless to say, the farewell from Irmhild was quite difficult for me too.) Before I left, Irmhild and I were unofficially engaged, to be precise, a fortnight before. Mama and Gerda are very happy about it as they are both quite fond of Irmhild. Irmhild’s family too, you will remember that I met them on my trip to the Eifel, approve and I have received a lovely letter from Mrs von Koch in which she writes that she could not imagine a son-in-law for Irmhild who would be dearer to her. I assume that you too are content with having Irmhild as a future daughter-in-law. The next step is to create a financial basis that will make it possible for us to marry at the earliest possible time. I hope that will soon be possible here, if not in America, then somewhere else. Please write and tell me your thoughts, I mean about my engagement to Irmhild. (20.12.1933)
From Los Angeles
America is a real experience for me. I have now recognised that you cannot know a country without having seen it and lived in it for a time. But I have realised one thing: There is no such thing as an American people. There are white people, among them Englishmen, Germans, Scandinavians, there are Italians, Mexicans, Spaniards, Negroes and Half-castes. They may all live under the same laws, on one and the same soil, but they do not relate to each other. A community, like in Germany, could never be achieved, as no ties of blood or historical or emotional bonds exist between people. The law of the jungle (speaking symbolically) rules. Laws are weaker than money and connections, and people consider the country as a hunting ground on which everyone is allowed to hunt to the extent that he can hold his own against the others and his surroundings. If he perishes no one cares.  The white man says, what concern of mine is the Negro, the Jew says, what concern of mine is the American or America. It is the laws and the life-style of the Wild West transferred to modern society. I underestimated the lawlessness, the corruption in all official places, and the power of money. The Americans speak of a depression. But in spite of that, the average American is more affluent than the most well-to-do in Germany. The standard of living is many times higher than in Germany. The differences between rich and poor are sometimes quite horrifying. But nobody really concerns himself with them. What business of mine is the Negro or the Italian, says the affluent bourgeois, and the mass of the poor is comprised of all races and peoples, and since there are no ties of race or blood here they don’t support each other and a revolution is a total impossibility. Even if America were worse off than Germany was a few years ago, a revolution would never be possible. If something decisive were to happen here, it could only come from the direction of the President. [...] For the USA is completely in the hands of the great powerful hunters, the bankers and capitalists, and they will see to it that their hunting grounds are not converted to agricultural land. It is funny: as though the spirit of the old Indians still hovered over the land. (4.12.1933)
The Trip to California
Melville, the agent, travelled with us to Champerico and so I had the opportunity to talk with him a lot and to hear a good deal that was quite fascinating. According to all I heard, Guatemala is by far the most interesting country among all these small Central American states, with the exception perhaps of Mexico. Among other things Melville told me:
In the north-western corner, between the settlement of Flores and the Mexican border there are high mountains in which pure-blooded Indian tribes live who have to this day never allowed themselves to be subordinated, into whose lands no white man has penetrated, or at least from which none has come back alive. The country there is very inaccessible and can only be reached through deep gorges. The Indians, however, have erected strongholds and fortifications, of course of a primitive kind, in all the places where it might be possible to enter and, as a result of the natural features of the place, these are so easy to defend that they were able to hold their own against the fire-power of the white man with only their simple weapons, bow and arrow etc. The men are supposed to be very tall, not of the small race of the other Indians that you see elsewhere in the country.    
Another story: A generation ago an eccentric Scotchman lived in Guatemala: A man from a good family, educated, but given to drink. He was sent out by a well-known British writer for whom he was to collect material for a book about the Spanish invasion of Guatemala. He did deliver the material but ended up staying in the country and eventually lived with the Indians, just like an Indian. He could speak all their languages and dialects, dressed as they did and had shed all the habits of a European. He knew a little about medicine and one day when he had saved the life of an Indian by means of his skills, the Indian said to him that, in gratitude, he wanted to show him something that no European had seen for many hundreds of years and no European would see without being killed by the Indians. They then travelled through the deepest jungles for many weeks and apparently came into the territory of the above mentioned Indians. And there the Indian showed him the entrance to a gold mine. At the entrance to the tunnel a depiction of the sun and the moon was hewn into the rock and in the passages there were still the haulage boxes full of gold ore as though the mine had been closed only yesterday. But outside everything was overgrown with jungle. The Indian then told him that so and so many years or generations ago, according to the calculations of the Scotchman around the sixteenth century, this mine had been exploited by Jesuits. However, since the monks were very harsh and cruel towards the Indian workers they were all murdered in a single night, the Nocte Triste, and the king of the Indians at the time placed a ban on the mine, according to which a certain tribe had to see to it that no white man would ever set foot in the mine again or leave it alive. Up to now that has been carried out with the exception of the Scotchman who had been accepted by the Indians as their equal. – The Scotchman who was a friend of Melville’s father, recorded this experience, also roughly the way to the mine and when he died he left these notes to Melville’s father. As a man of sober thinking the latter naturally thought that they were a fantasy conjured up by delirium tremens, the illness from which the Scotchman actually died. Eventually, however, he looked at the old records that are in the hands of the government and found in them a report about a mine called “To the Sun and the Moon”. The murder of the Jesuits and the approximate year also coincided with the report of the Scotchman. – I asked Melville why nobody so far had tried to get back to it. He told me that the existence of the mine had been forgotten, no one whom he had asked had known about it and that he himself had not yet found the money or, to be honest, the courage to go there. He was of the opinion that it would only be possible to find the mine, which was completely overgrown by jungle, with the help of natives who knew the secret. But that would require living with them for years, studying their language, and even then it would be a gamble if one ended up finding it or coming out alive. He was willing to give me all the details if I wanted to try. But where would you get the money? I would absolutely love to do it. The direction which the Scotchman indicated also suggests that the goldfields being worked in Guatemala receive their gold from that reef, for what is mined on them is alluvial gold and not reef gold.
Melville then went on to tell about the conquest of this country by the Spaniards. Even though I have read about it many times, it left a huge impression on me hearing about it here where it all happened. I will never forget these days on the coast of Guatemala. I don’t think there has ever been a country I have seen from the coast that has had such a magical attraction for me. All I could do all day was stand at the railing and gaze into the volcanic world of the coastal range and my yearning took off with me in a hitherto unknown way. I would never have thought that Central America could have such an unbelievable interest and attraction for me. I don’t think my longing to penetrate into the interior of New Guinea was as overwhelming as here. In the evening a calming haze of cloud settled over the mountains and soon the night enveloped the land in mysterious darkness. Only a few faint lights glowed over through the dark from Champerico, before which we lay at anchor. We didn’t sleep much that night. It was one o’clock before we got to bed too. I drank a few more beers with Melville which went down easily in the heat that did not let up at night either. The fellow was one of the most intelligent and interesting Englishmen I have ever come across.  
On Saturday we cut across to Cape San Lucas on the Californian Peninsula. On the port side we passed an interesting little island, St. Thomas or Scorro Island, belonging to Mexico. According to the nautical handbook it is uninhabited, is of volcanic origin and sparsely vegetated. In the main, an edible bean, prickly pear and a bit of scrub. Is supposed to have a wealth of snakes of quite considerable length and there are apparently also goats there. The story of these goats is the following, told to me by Melville: A European and his wife and a friend decided to go to the island by ship in order to raise goats there. They took a few goats with them as a start. On the island they found the conditions favourable for breeding goats and the couple decided to stay there while their friend was to go back to Mexico and buy all they needed to support themselves. Luck would have it that on arrival in Mexico the friend suffered a stroke and died before he could say a word. At the time, the revolution had just started and the Mexican crew scattered in all directions. Now there was no longer anyone about who knew of the existence of the couple on the island. They kept on waiting for the return of their friend and survived on goat’s milk, fish, crabs and beans. It was a year and a half later before one of the Mexican sailors remembered that the two white people must still be out there. He reported it to the government who in good time sent out a ship. The couple was found healthy and content; apparently they didn’t really want to come back. A little contemporary Robinsonade.
Last night we saw Cape San Lucas but only the light. Today Margarita. The Bay of Magdalene which lies behind it is supposed to have been leased from the Mexican authorities by the Japanese, for 99 years, apparently to establish a whaling station there. In reality, however, it is rumoured to be of military importance as the bay could harbour the entire Japanese fleet, moreover protected from shellfire from the sea. It is said that large tanks are being built there to supply the Japanese fleet with oil. What is true about this, is not known.
Here on this coast there is an unbelievable wealth of marine life. Standing on one side of the ship we counted over sixty sharks, large enough to attack a man, in the course of two hours. Some of them were so close to the ship that you could distinguish the entire body in the water. They were blue sharks and hammerheads. There were tortoises in their thousands. I counted several hundred in the same space of time. We then saw about ten seals, a whale and, in the morning, a pod of thirty porpoises. Not to mention the small fry like flying fishes and swordfish. Even the Captain said he had never seen so many sharks and tortoises all at once.
In the afternoon there was a very strange atmosphere and around four o’clock the island near the Bay of Magdalene could be seen upside down as a mirage. Sometimes looked like an aircraft carrier, sometimes like Heligoland and then again like an Egyptian pyramid.
Then a little owl flew up. He settled down in the anchor coil and couldn’t see me. I snuk up again and could have caught him with my hand. But he sat with his head turned towards me and I still have the scar where the other bird [Doeskopp] bit me. I wanted to wait till he turned around but he didn’t. Suddenly he stuck out his head and looked me straight in the eye. I sat quietly and in this way we stared at each other for five minutes. He had beautiful, large, yellow-green eyes with large pupils and very long legs for his short squat body. Eventually I got pins and needles in my leg and moved and the little fellow flew off astern. (14.11.33)

Los Angeles
 Got off in Main Street and walked around the central district for about two hours. What one could see in the way of types and people is impossible to describe. In Main Street terrible poverty with people of all colours, in Broadway, two streets on, the height of elegance. And above all this lights, spotlights and light again. Every few steps a cinema, with a crier in front of it, innumerable coffee shops, drug stores, boot cleaners, hair-dressers, and the devil only knows what else. And the shops all open though it was almost eleven o’clock. And who was having their boots cleaned and their hair cut: People whose boots were falling apart, men in suits so disreputable that there seemed little point in having a haircut to go with them. And people from every country. On one corner a fat Negress stood on a chair and preached “the gospel” loudly and with terribly funny logic. Around her were the faces of the faithful listening reverently and in conclusion a typically Negro psalm was sung. However, there were hardly any Negros comprising the audience but white people and some so well dressed and with such intelligent faces that they could easily pass for bank managers in Berlin. (Which doesn’t mean to say that Berlin bank managers have particularly intelligent faces.) A fat Negress preaching to reverently listening white people, just imagine something like that in Germany. Opposite there was another preacher with a big audience (and all this on the street): He was saying something about vibrations and if the vibrations of a person did not match the vibrations of the place he could never be successful. ... There was a church where one could see amusing films, for nothing of course, otherwise no one would go to church. Then after Mary Pickford has done her dash on the screen, it is the minister’s turn to tell something about Jesus Christ. There is a narrow little street going off the Plaza which is supposedly the oldest in Los Angeles. Only Mexicans live there and sell self-made kitsch, like at a fair. I saw practically nothing worth buying. But there was a little restaurant there in which an old man played the harp and another the mandolin and they sometimes sang. That seems to have been genuine. Anyway the music was beautiful and interesting. But I only listened from the road. I then had some dinner at another restaurant where you took a tray and served yourself and then I raced back home at the speed of an express in the red city train. The impressions of this evening were so varied that I can only describe a few, a very few. But America is certainly interesting. More interesting than I thought. What is most noticeable is the incongruence of rich and poor, of fairy-tale riches and quite horrifying poverty. “Something must be done about it”, says Dr. Schiffbauer.
A reception for a football match; 100 people. The host is filthy rich, filthy thrice underlined, and is supposed to have earned his money in true American fashion, as Hans told me, with “speak-easies” (under-cover bars) and not always in accordance with the law. But here you have to be cleverer than the law, then everything is alright, and that’s how it was. The court of law before which he once stood couldn’t prove anything.” The house, “gilded taps in the bathroom, ceilings with beautifully carved beams, valuable, very beautiful furniture and a bedroom so huge that it would have made sense to have motorized transport between the beds.... A butler in tuxedo with white gloves, a Negress clad in white, a  Japanese and a Chinese man served at table. It was an exquisite meal ...” These people are complete autocrats. They can buy anything for their money and also buy themselves off anything. For these people there are really no laws and they and those greater than them rule America through the media and their money, and all the officials, the police and the politicians (apparently with the exception of Roosevelt) are their paid agents. Funny country America. Imagine this sort of thing in Germany. They would all be in camps and serve them right. For here the reverse motto rules: selfishness before public-mindedness and whoever has money has power and respect no matter whether it has been “earned” through shady deals. You just mustn’t get caught. ...Those that do get caught are stupid and all America is outraged about this criminal.  Just recently two murderers who had kidnapped a young man and then killed him were taken out of their prison in San Francisco and publicly hanged in a park: The first lynching for eight years in California. A certain Rosenberg, a lawyer, who had intended to defend the fellows and looked forward to earning fame and a huge sum of money through the trial, sees his business interests damaged as a result. And since the Governor of California said that he was in agreement with the lynching (though not quite so openly) Rosenberg intends to sue the Governor for a million dollars compensation since his remarks before the lynching are supposed to have encouraged this. You make money from everything here. – By the way, all the papers are full of the pros and cons of lynching. But I think that the greater part of America is in agreement with the lynching of the murderers, particularly as the court case and the possible execution would have cost the state over $100,000. A woman probably hit the nail on the head when she said: If America had just and sensible laws and an impeccable court system the mob would have no need to resort to lynch justice. As it is, the people look after their own rights. However much I condemn lynch justice, she has a point. It is basically the same attitude whether an individual makes his money in contravention of the law or whether the people pronounce justice in contravention of the law. That all goes back to the time of the Wild West where it was every man for himself and the law of the jungle prevailed along with a ruthless lack of consideration. It is also a result of the mix of peoples here. People really don’t see themselves as a unified nation and it is just impossible for a sense of community to arise between all these different races.


The Story of Heinrich Brenn (formerly gardener in Hunters Hill)
And now for the most fantastic experience I have had here so far. When the doorbell rang it was Brenn who looked exactly as he had in Australia in 1909. I would have recognised him on the street. He seemed to me to have become smaller, but not at all older. He has the round head of a peasant, amazingly taut features, worn down front teeth, and a colossally stocky muscular body. You have the feeling as though the fellow is hard as rock. “That’s him”, he said in a deep calm voice and gave me his four-fingered hand. The index finger had been literally bitten off by a Finn during a life and death fight on the gold fields of Arizona which lasted two hours. The Finn had gone mad and was frothing at the mouth during the attack. Brenn could have killed him but had enough presence of mind merely to shackle him since he had no witnesses. He told me about this on the drive to San Pedro. He first took a long look at me and then said objectively as though he were examining a cow and had finally decided to buy it: “You’ve become a fine fellow.” .... And then I had to get into his car straight away and drive out to San Pedro where he is digging for the pirate’s treasure, 800 million! He had an old Chevrolet limousine and a pile of stuff loaded up in the back. On the way he told me about his project. For three months he and two others have been digging to raise a treasure which pirates are supposed to have buried even before the days of the Spaniards. “And how do people know that the treasure is in that particular spot and how much there is?” I asked somewhat sceptically. It was handed down from family to family. And how do you know that you aren’t the victim of a massive fraud? That is not a fraud, said Brenn. The other two are also helping with the work and have already invested all their money in the venture. “And do you think you will really find the treasure?” “That’s a gamble,” said Brenn. “When you go prospecting to look for gold then that’s a gamble too, and not a bigger one than this. And this is a big gamble too,” said Brenn, pointing to the oil towers through which we were driving and behind which the sun was setting blood red. “More money has been invested in this than has ever been pumped out and in the entire United States more money has been invested in prospecting than was ever retrieved in gold and other substances. You have to gamble a bit, sometimes you score a hit, sometimes you miss. The whole of life is a gamble.” Eventually we turned off the main road and drove through a fairly fractured hilly landscape through which the road wound like a snake, sometimes far down in the ravine, sometimes high up on the ridge from where one had a magnificent view over the ocean and over the countless lights of San Pedro. The sunset was grand, in the ravines it was darkest night while on the open ridge roads an unreal reddish light cast a strange luminousness over the district. The whole area was so wildly romantic and so grand in its combination of sea and mountains, that it seemed to me the very place where you would expect pirates, highwaymen and other strange eccentrics. Soon we were close to the sea and suddenly the track dropped steeply down to the ocean. Then we had arrived. It was a small bay with precipitous rocks that cast a pitch-black shadow onto us. Beside it the ocean surged with monotonous roar. Everything was black and no light to be seen anywhere. Brenn had erected his tent so that it lent against the steep slope and not far from it stood a dilapidated house. Brenn pointed upward: “Here in this mountain lies the treasure. We’ll go up in a minute.” He gave me a candle and led the way, also equipped with a candle. We climbed up the mountain steeply, soon had to scramble with hands and feet, then came to a very narrow trail. It was pitch-dark and our two lights which flickered slightly in the complete windlessness must have looked like two jack o’lanterns or will-o’-the wisps. “Careful,” said Brenn at a spot where the path led narrowly around a ledge of rock. “If you fall down here you are dead.” I had no trouble getting around it and finally we stood at the entrance of a black hole. Brenn went ahead with his candle. In the faint glow I could see that it was a regular shaft hewn through the rock, high enough that I could just stand slightly bent. On and on we went into the interior of the mountain, Brenn leading the way without uttering a word. There was a spot where the ceiling had caved in and had been supported by a huge board which Brenn had fished out of the ocean swimming. In some places water dripped, in others it smelt of sulphur, at times strongly of oil. When we had gone in for about sixty meters the shaft divided into two. One soon ended, the other veered a little to the left. “I first thought this was where the treasure was. But it’s more to the left.” The left shaft then went on for another thirty or forty meters and at last we had come to the end. Brenn pointed in the direction of the extension of the shaft. “Another ten or twelve meters on, that’s where it is bound to be.” He took out a pendulum, held it very still and finally it began to swing strongly in that direction. It was a weight containing mercury hanging from a string. He made me try too but it didn’t move at all for me.  Here at the end the shaft had passed through the rock and was in firm but not rocky earth. “Now it will be quick,” said Brenn. “Another ten days and we’ll be in the cave.” I couldn’t understand why he had to dig through a mountain of solid rock in order to eventually come to a cave. But he explained it to me. The entrance to the cave had originally been on the other side of the mountain, but was now completely buried, that was why he had to choose the way through the hard rock. Also his partners did not want to have to dig through the bones which are supposed to lie there. Such bones always stood in relation to such a buried treasure and if you disturbed them it could have dire consequences. I asked how he knew there were bones. He said that too had been passed down from family to family. I examined the rock to the extent that was possible in the dark. The ground at the end of the tunnel was fatty as though drenched with oil. The rock in the first part was, I presumed, chalky slate, sometimes it looked like talcum, sometimes like gypsum. Took a few specimens along. Back at the entrance we could hear the ocean roar, saw several lights from ships and in the distance the lights of Catalina Island. Then we were back to the dangerous scramble downwards. Back at the tent, Brenn unloaded all the stuff from the car into his tent in which there was a huge mess: A box of apples, one of pears, one of grapes, a large Swiss cheese, bread and a few other provisions for the week. Then we drank homebrew from the bottle and back we drove through the pitch-black mountains to Los Angeles. On the way, in Inglewood, we visited a strange little German whom Brenn made the offer to participate but who didn’t want to. He had no confidence in the venture. A smart little Swabian. For the next hour he then recounted all his war experiences and was so engrossed that it was impossible to interrupt him even though Brenn and I were keen to leave. We had drummed him out of bed and as sleepy as he had been to start off , as wide awake he became during his story-telling. On leaving Brenn said: “So you don’t want to?” The Swabian said no with slight embarrassment. “I don’t need you,” said Brenn. “Only wanted to give you the chance. You can earn $25,000 in eight days. But if you don’t want to... just don’t say afterwards that I didn’t give you the chance.” Finally, we arrived back home around midnight. Brenn then drove back alone all the way to his workplace to start digging again at sunrise next morning.
The story of Brenn ends with an extraordinary twist of fate. A little more than a year after he abandoned his search, the treasure was found on an island a bit further south by a Mexican boy who was scooping away sand to make a fire-place. It consisted of two million dollars worth of gold ducats and doubloons, a true pirate’s treasure.   

The 1938 Emergency during the Beinssen’s trip to Germany
There is a long letter from Ekke written on 2 October on board the M.S. Sibajak in Marseilles, describing the family’s departure from Germany. 
I will now have to begin to tell you the story of our amazing departure [....]All Wednesday we changed our minds about a dozen times, should we or shouldn’t we leave. Father von Koch rang in the morning and advised against it, Father Beinssen was for it, Mr Solte rang from Bremen and advised neither for nor against. Then Father von Koch rang again and advised us to go. In the meantime we were glued to the radio instead of packing, listening to the news, suddenly decided to go, packed feverishly till the next news came when we stopped again. [...] Now Irmhild wanted to know definitely whether we were going or not. Okay, Irmhild, let’s definitely give up. We are not going. Half an hour later the customs officer arrives. I give him two marks and send him off again. He has hardly left when Mr Solte rings and gives us the news that a four powers conference has been arranged and mobilisation has been postponed for 24 hours. That was around five o’clock in the evening. We then also heard the news direct from England. But now it was too late. The customs officer couldn’t be called back. In the meantime, Irmhild had unpacked again and repacked for a trip to Scheibleck. [...] At eleven, Father rang from Zurich and advised us to go all the same. He couldn’t understand that it was now impossible and seemed rather annoyed. We then went to bed. At seven in the morning, I woke with the feeling of a man who desperately runs for five blocks in order to catch the tram after all. Irmhild co-operated and Gisela, Mother and the other inhabitants of the house thought we were stark raving mad. Irmhild and Gisela packed feverishly. I inquired about trains that could reach the boat train in Paris, ordered a vehicle and at the same time warned the customs officers at headquarters. [...] At 10 am Irmhild had finished packing and the cases were on the vehicle on their way to the customs office. My attempts to persuade the customs officers to finish their investigation in a bare hour if it was to be of any use at all ran aground on their sense of duty. Every suitcase, even the typewriter, every book, every tin of baby formula was opened, all the pockets of my neatly packed suits were checked, and all with a deadly slowness that put you in a cold sweat. In between, I was given lectures that an examination of this sort has to be booked three days in advance. At twelve, they had convinced themselves that I was not a foreign exchange trafficker. When I then remarked or rather, dared to remark, that I had given them a sworn declaration to this effect at the very start and they could have saved themselves the trouble, they looked as though they would start all over again. I therefore hurriedly thanked them profusely for their obliging behaviour and the understanding they had shown for the fact that I had now missed my tram to Australia, quickly threw the things back into the car and rushed to the station. The official there had obviously had a day off when they were taught how to check in baggage to Marseilles for he took almost half an hour. It was just before one by the time the calculation had been done (in Paris it then emerged that it was wrong after all) and the other travellers to Australia were already arriving with Mother and Fritzchen, in two cars laden with the remaining hand luggage (twelve small pieces). Everyone who had come took off for Cologne, I with the heavy load of twelve large cases and just as many small ones on my mind, Irmhild and Gisela in silent resignation, Silke and Uwe both full of enthusiasm. We would have had only seven minutes in Cologne to transfer to the train for Paris and it would have been quite impossible to reload the big cases in that time. Fortunately Mother had discovered in the timetable that there was a better train, namely one that left Cologne half an hour later and arrived in Paris two hours earlier. With the first, we would have had to take everything from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de Lyon in half an hour; as it was, we had two and a half hours time. There was hope again. [...] In Aachen there was the German currency control and the passport control which, amazingly, went well and without a hitch. But I still had to sacrifice thirty Registermark on the altar of the fatherland. The Belgian check in Herbesthal also went smoothly. Behind the border all the bridges and tunnels were occupied by troops with machine guns, anti-aircraft guns etc. and everywhere on the streets you saw troops marching to the border. Troop trains were also constantly passing us. In Charleroi, French officials then boarded the train. That too went smoothly. We were due in Paris at half past nine. In Charleroi we discovered that we were an hour and a half late, probably due to the troop transports. We then didn’t arrive till 11 pm. From Elberfeld I had rung the Rotterdam Lloyd who informed me that the passages were still available in spite of my cancellation and who promised to send the Paris agent to the train there. [...] The Paris customs officials were not what you would call fast but they were like lightning compared with those in Wuppertal. Half an hour before the departure of the boat train we were done; we piled everything high onto an automobile and swayed to the other station past the Bastille and through streets that had been completely blacked out against air-raids. There the luggage had to be checked in once again and I again had to pay a huge sum even though I had already paid our passages to Marseilles in Wuppertal.  With tips and other expenses the agent then presented me with a bill that amounted to seven pounds and left me just enough to pay for breakfast in the morning. [...] Anyway, the agent told me in Paris that the checks were now over and once we had set foot on the boat train we were on Dutch soil. If it came to war we still had a good chance of making it aboard. Up to then, I had been constantly haunted by the nightmare that war could break out, I could be arrested, and Irmhild and Gisela with the two children and the pile of luggage would be stuck in Paris without money. At one o’clock, we arrived in Marseilles. The train stopped right next to the liner and when we walked up the gangway three small and three large weights dropped from our hearts, not only because we had managed to get there and all our luggage had come along too but also because the first news we heard told us that the discussions in Munich had turned out positive and that there would be no world war. An hour later we headed out to sea. (2.10.38)

Ekke’s arrest and internment
My consort of honour was very nice and my arrest and transportation a comedy. After I had seen first you and then Edgewater disappear I was brought back to reality in the first curve when I was almost suffocated by my collapsed mattress. From then on I fought a wild battle against death by asphyxiation till we arrived at the hotel that is situated just before the bridge where we stopped, as agreed. There we started off with a few drinks to celebrate my arrest. Then we went on to the Aaron’s Exchange Hotel where we had some more appetizers and then consumed toheroa soup, lobster mayonnaise, and ice cream. We had a few bottles of beer to go with that. Having gorged ourselves thus, we arose. But in the lounge my companions met friends and asked whether I minded if we joined them for a bit. I was nice and said I didn’t mind and there we then continued to drink till nine. One of these friends was the comedian Lennie Lower, drunk as a lord and therefore somewhat disappointing as a ‘wise cracker’. In between, my escorts left me and I could move around the whole hotel freely and so was able to give you a ring. Eventually the older man came back and said that it was now time to put me to bed. Upon my inquiry whether we shouldn’t take the other fellow along he said that he was unfortunately dead to the world. He couldn’t take much.
So we went back to the mattress in the car and off we drove to Long Bay at sixty miles an hour. Because of the tempo and the impaired sobriety of my chauffeur I hid behind my mattress like a coward. We lost our way a few times and thrice I got out and asked passers-by, politely raising my hat: ‘Can you tell me how I can get to jail?’ or ‘Can you tell me the quickest way to get to jail?’ I have rarely seen people pull such funny faces. Eventually we arrived and after a lot of tooting the gate was opened. Then off we went up the long drive to the women’s prison, for that is where we are accommodated. By now it was almost 10 pm and the doorman and doorwoman gave us an earful because we were so late. I should have been put into a city lock-up overnight. Then, loaded up like a mule, I dragged my mattress, blankets, bag, coat etc. into the reception hall where I was ‘examined’. I could take along everything except money, pencil and pen. I was allowed to keep the books after my ‘friend’ had declared that I was a learned man and the books were purely scientific. I was given a receipt for my valuables and the detective one for me and that done I was ‘in’. Then I loaded myself up with my possessions once more and wandered off to one of the many prison buildings in the company of a policeman. The gate was opened with much rattling of keys and clanking of iron, cell no 26 unlocked, and I was given two minutes to make my bed and unpack. Then the light went off. There I remained alone until seven in the morning. (14.7.40)
Now I want to tell you a bit about our Christmas festivities in prison. On Tuesday afternoon the young man from Hamburg, Schant, and I decorated the Christmas tree which you brought in on Monday. Apart from the lametta [tinsel] you gave us, all the branches were covered with cotton wool so that the tree really looked quite handsome and winterly. Then Brose, Janssen and I set the table nicely and decorated it with chocolates, nuts etc. also flowers. Several plates with treats were prepared and at six o’clock the little silver bell was rung. (A knife against a bottle.) Everybody came except Schreiber who was sick in bed. Menu: tinned tongue, salad, sliced pineapple with sugar, cheese, sausage and bacon and to finish off ice-cream and fruit salad (from tins). Everything tasted wonderful and at the table things were beautifully harmonious for the first time. ‘Oh du fröhliche’, ‘Silent Night’ and ‘Oh Christmas Tree’ were sung standing while I lit the Christmas tree which looked very fine and had the proper shape. To finish off, we sang old soldiers’ songs and then Meier gave an address in which he thanked those who had prepared the festivities so nicely and then asked everybody to raise their mugs for a hearty Siegheil; what was to be cheered he didn’t say, probably the Christmas tree, the mugs were empty too, but that didn’t worry him. The two Jews were not invited on the pretext that this was a purely Christian religious festival. But I had taken poor Joseph Herrmann a parcel with treats and a candle (a much desired item) beforehand and he was very appreciative. On Christmas Day, you then came early and that was my best Christmas present.
On Christmas Day the Italians decorated the hall with coloured paper and had their feast at midday, to which they invited all the Germans except Meier. Of course we couldn’t accept because the exclusion would have caused a rift among us and given rise to all sorts of unpleasantness. So he invited only Brose, Janssen and myself as his personal guests. We accepted and had a nice feast with superb food which the Italian women had brought in. The result was great agitation and disgruntlement among the Germans that we and not they had been invited and also among the Jews. It was a real revolution and the waves of outrage surged high. Consequently I then decided on Thursday to grab the lion by the tail and convene a meeting for all. In it, I explained that initially everybody except Meier had been invited because Meier had repeatedly insulted Rossi and the Italians in a very tactless and insolent manner. Meier denied this but when I called in Rossi he had to admit it. Everyone then demanded that Meier apologize, otherwise [...] He did so and Rossi accepted his apology. Everyone agreed that I had acted properly and Meier was given a serious warning. The business was sorted out and now peace reigns once more until the stinker Meier thinks of something new again. The Jews have also calmed down. Now we want to celebrate New Year all together. In the meeting I suggested we vote whether we shouldn’t invite the two Jews, who always eat by themselves in their cells, to come to our table. It was a secret ballot. The result: 7 no’s, 3 yes’s, 2 indifferent. I was surprised at the result. (27.12.40)
Before he went, the older of the Italians [...] called Panozzo, told me that he was descended from the Cimbri and that in the part of northern Italy that was ceded to Italy after the war there is a region where the only pure Cimbric tribes that still exist live on two plateaus, 1000 meters in height, on either side of the river Brenta. And even today, these tribes speak the old Cimbric language. Unfortunately he himself no longer knew it. But he was very proud of his ancestry. He is exactly as old as I am and in December 1917 we faced each other on the Brenta, I in Primolano and he in San Marino. Now we were squatting together in a dim cell and again had the same fate. [...] The great battle of Asiago in which a terrible amount of blood flowed was conducted, of all places, on the two Cimbric plateaus and razed his home village to the ground. Deep snow and the inaccessibility of the area resulted in most of the dead not being found. After the war, Panozzo then took on the job of looking for these, collecting their dog-tags and burying them. He pursued this task from the end of the war to the end of 1921. In that period he and his helpers found and buried 56,000 dead. 250 alone were piled up in the cellar of his own house where they were laid when they fell because they could not be buried outside since it was winter and there was no ground to be had. – When he told me all that, I was at first horrified. There was something spooky about being locked in a dusky cell with this person. I suddenly felt revolted by this man who had agreed to become a grave digger for money. But then he went on to say that the work had seemed like a sacred trust to him. He described how he always carefully detached the dog-tag and how with his own hands he had lifted many who were only a miserable little pile of bones into the canvas bag and then buried them. [...] He is now 41 and he said that the dead, his dead, had now accompanied him through all his life and if he experienced something that was sad and difficult, then he only had to think of his dead. Then he laughed and pointing to the cell said: ‘This isn’t difficult, this is only annoying.’ And then the light in our cell was turned on from outside, the bolts squealed and Panozzo and his compatriot were moved to Long Bay [...] (21.8.1940)
Irmhild’s account of internment for her brother Arnold.
When Italy entered the war [Ekke] was interned in spite of being Australian by birth. When things looked as though Japan would come in, Gisela was put in a camp. Our little Peter had been born in October ‘39 and I found it was almost beyond my strength to look after the large house and the three little children by myself. (7.11.46)
We experienced a good deal that was horrible because of the war, so that once Gisela had been interned, I actively promoted my own internment with the children. On the other hand, many people and above all the ordinary and uneducated ones behaved in a wonderfully decent and humane manner. Among the educated Australians we have only a few, though trusted and very dear friends. But as a class, I like the lower middle classes here best. (4.10.46)
 [...] the first year was a nightmare and I had often asked myself whether it was the right thing to expose [the children] to these conditions. They came down with one illness after the other, eventually severe hooping cough that affected Silke particularly badly. The food was quite unsuitable for children as they were used to carefully prepared diet food and the sanitary conditions were appalling. It is only thanks to the healthy climate that no really bad diseases broke out. On top of that, there was the cramped space in the huts into which you were squashed. The corrugated iron became scorching hot in summer [...] in winter it was icy, terribly draughty and cold. There was no way of heating the rooms. The closest water tap was a walk away and the toilet a journey. There were three showers for about 150 women, the same for men. The toilets were too unsanitary for children to use so that they always had to do their business in the huts which meant that one of the adults was always out emptying potties. We had to lug all water for washing across a big yard. There were only two coppers for the entire population. From them to the washing lines was again a lengthy trek. In summer we suffered from terrible dust storms. You then had to close windows and doors in spite of the burning heat and could still hardly breathe. In winter there was ankle deep mud everywhere and you never had dry shoes. There were no shade trees and the children could only play right in the dirt and always looked as was to be expected. That meant that Gisela and I had a huge amount of washing every day. The dining halls were terribly overcrowded because the camp had originally been intended for fewer people. In time, two more barracks were built. Forty-eight people, if there had really been only two per room, which wasn’t the case. The noise and the unappetizing spectacles at dinner were among the things I found most off-putting. No wonder that the children could hardly be persuaded to eat; it didn’t taste good and they had too much excitement and diversion. Nearly all these things improved after a time. I was the front-line fighter for a children’s cuisine which I managed to get going for a while till a more far-reaching reform of the kitchen could be achieved and the Germans separated from the Italians and Arabs. After that the food became much better and by then the children had also got used to the new conditions. Soon gardens were laid out in front of the huts which decreased the amount of loose dust and gave a more friendly appearance. The paths were stabilized with gravel, and drains were dug so that it was, on the whole, no longer necessary to wade through the mud. A large grass-covered oval, on which at first only the school children had occasionally been allowed to do sport, was made accessible to the general public and included in the confines of the camp throughout the day, though it was closed at night because there was only a fence and no barbed wire around it. But that was just marvellous. Then a large hall was also built for plays, concerts and the like and equipped with a great deal of care and good taste. Gardens outside the camp, in which men and women could work during the day, supplied us with fresh vegetables which had been very rare at the start. Our huts were lined with plywood and the layer of air between it and the corrugated iron created quite good insulation. The considerable disadvantage was, however, that bed-bugs had nested in it and could not be exterminated in spite of the enormous efforts made to smoke them out. Now the hot summer nights were spent hunting the bugs; which was particular fun because it had to be done in the dark. At ten the light was switched off from outside and candles and torches were prohibited. Towards the end of our period in camp, we were then even granted light for the express purpose of hunting bugs. It did have to be turned off at ten thirty on a trumpet signal but you were allowed to turn it on if the children were sick or if you were ‘hunting’. The official debugging which occurred at regular intervals in summer was something horrific. Early in the morning everything had to be moved out of the huts onto the road along with the bugs! That was particularly depressing. The beds were driven out of the camp and put into a pit with supposedly bug-killing liquid. They stayed in there for two hours, which the bugs, who had apparently been looking forward to just such a bath, thought was grand. In the meantime, the men walked through the huts with masks and spray-guns, fumigating them with formalin and kerosene; they came out again after a while, red-eyed, coughing and cursing. You spent the rest of the day on the road with your bundles and suitcases, sweating, dusty, furious at the futility of this undertaking [...] (28.1.47)
On the whole, the time of internment enriched both adults and children. By living together so closely in the camp, you became acquainted with people in ways that would never have been possible otherwise. And putting up with discomfort strengthens your resilience and makes you grateful for what you have. It would have seemed almost unethical not to have carried some of the burden, even though our lives behind barbed wire couldn’t be of help to anyone. For the children, the years of German schooling were important. Silke and Uwe learnt to read and write German and we will make sure that they do not forget it again. (26.7.46)